Wednesday, June 22, 2011

Katahdin! (Finished)

Text from Ward (June 22, 2011 at 11:08 AM EDT):  "Just finished.  I'll call from millinocket tonight."

Details to follow . . .he still has to hike down the mountain and make his way into a nearby town.

Tuesday, June 21, 2011

Mom's Musings

No news from Ward as he is walking the last 30 miles of the 100 Mile Wilderness today.  We knew he would have no phone signal during this time.  He will hike  30 today and then the FINAL 18 miles tomorrow (Wednesday) and that will include the summit of Mt. Katahdin - the experience he has been waiting for since Feb. 3!!!

It seems like so long ago, and yet yesterday, that we took Ward to Georgia, staying at the Amicolola State Lodge where we stayed overnight before he embarked on this wonderful journey of a lifetime.  It was with great anxiety and anticipation that we drove to the parking lot below the start of the trail.  As blog followers may recall, Dad (his, not mine) and I hiked the short .9 miles up to the trail head.  We had heavy hearts and great worries, but we  wanted to demonstrate our support for the venture. It was difficult seeing our 20 year old set off by himself on a 6 month journey...on a day that was well below 20 degrees at mid morning.

Again, you may recall that we encountered another hiker, Matt, as we were descending the mountain.  Matt and Ward have been together perhaps 75 % of the time.  What an incredible relief to us for Ward to have a companion.  Although Ward and Matt could not have been more different, they forged a great and I hope lasting friendship.  I suspect they will keep in touch.  Perhaps Matt has even caught up with Ward at this point??? We hope so! 

As mentioned earlier, Dad, George, and I had planned to fly to Maine and join Ward for the summit of Katahdin. However,  Ward decided he preferred to do it with his current hiking partners and we certainly understand that summitting with others who have endured the journey has to be more emotionally powerful. [Dad interjects here:  I think it had more to do with the fact that he plans to get the hell out of dodge when he finishes.  In his words, "I don't plan to hang around Maine touring and eating lobster for the next five days.  I'm heading straight home and I plan to visit friends.  Please buy a plan ticket for the day after I finish, to depart after noon."] Of course, this allowed Dad to stay at work and saved much money in airfare and rooms/food!  At the end of the day, it is with great anticipation that we meet up with Ward at RDU on Thurs afternoon and hug him and show him what pride we have in his vision, his organization, his physical ability, and his persistence and discipline that allowed him to accomplish this great feat!  We can't wait!!!!

Oh, I nearly forgot to add that I had mailed Ward a box of civilian clothes for the Wed night celebration in Millinocket/return flight home.  Won't he look odd with the long hair and beard but wearing J. Crew pants, a Brooks Brothers shirt, belt (necessary, Ward said, to hold up pants!) and sperrys?  Also included travel-sized deodorant and shampoo, items he has not carried or used except for when he met us on some weekends!

Now, time to move George out of Ward's room and clean it, buy his favorite groceries, make sure George returns his croakies and all the things he's borrowed  and make home a welcoming place!  Then, what for the homecoming dinner?  Crab cakes, trout, wild salmon, scallops, beef, mussels, Thai food?!!! Start with smoked salmon?  Anything with sriracha sauce Ward will love!  Perhaps a flourless chocolate cake (La Bete Noir- Epicurious-is a favorite of Ward's)....isn't it crazy how much a mother nurtures with food?!!!  Because he's still a kid at heart, we'll have some cracker jacks!  Ha...sorry to report that, Ward!
 
Now as one arrives home, we had one take off for Grand Western Tour last Saturday.  Camille will tour the great out west with 45 other 15 yr. old kids-what fun!  She has already been to Churchill Downs in Louisville and seen a race, been to St. Louis and on to Salina, Kansas, Colorado Springs,....Jackson Hole, Yellowstone, Seattle, San Francisco, Grand Canyon, etc.  the list goes on!  I want to be a kid again!

George graduated recently and is working this summer for a certain hosiery plant.  He is going to Elon in 2012 after a gap year.  This fall, he will head to East Africa through a NOLS program...an incredible learning and self discovery program.  He will off trail hike through bamboo forests, make strong intercultural connections, attempt to learn some Kiswahili language, go on a safari, possibly summit Mt. Kilimanjaro (!!!!!!!!!!!), travel through dense forests with a 50-60 pound pack (we will get to recycle much of Ward's gear), study wildlife, have a home stay, perform some community service and hopefully learn what it's like to live without cell phones, pizza, Starbucks and the like!!!  I think George is in for a very different but equally life changing adventure!  His internship at the NC Zoo was a great experience this spring and just a precursor of what he will get to see this Sept!  He has the opportunity to earn some college credits and so much more.  His spring semester of NOLS has not been confirmed but possibly a sea kayaking/sailing course in Baja.  He has already done a 3 week Outward Bound program in Maine that was focused on sailing and sea kayaking, which he enjoys.  OB seems to be a little more about reaching one's physical and emotional boundaries while NOLS is a leadership school....Unfortunately, George will have no contact with us so no blog for this one.  His course finishes just before Thanksgiving so we are toying with his touring a little after Africa. Unsure at this point but it's time to get visas and flight tickets and gear!

Today's young folks seem to have the world at their feet....life is changing fast and life is global, and it's important that people learn to confidently interact with folks from other countries and cultures (soap box moment).  Let's hope the world can be a better place after the all these experiences! And, as Aunt Peggy so astutely noted, the conversations will certainly be interesting at this year's family Christmas Dinner!

We will post after Ward's arrival home and perhaps a few days after just to inform you of how he is acclimating to home life..can't imagine that will be hard to do but Carolina Kid, who hiked in 1999 (I think!), has told us that sleeping in a bed was uncomfortable at first!  He also said that it takes a while for your metabolism to slow so the hiker continues to eat copious amounts of food (recall the 6000-8000 calories a day?)....Wow...we will be drooling over Ward's food consumption!

Many thanks to all of you who have followed the blog and given Ward your support.  It has been fun for us to share with you his adventure.  Happy Trails to all!

Saturday, June 18, 2011

Close

I"m not sure where to begin.  We have had conversations and exchanged text messages, but everything seems a bit disjointed right now.  It is much harder to keep up with Ward's progress now that the Spot is gone.  We talked earlier in the week when he was in Stratton, ME.  The terrain in southwestern ME is terribly difficult, and a number of thru-hikers simply give up at this point, even though they are within 200-300 miles of Katahdin.  But Stratton is the end of the really bad stuff until one reaches Katahdin, and from there Ward has some big days planned.

We talked again yesterday (Friday) from Monson, ME.  The short version of the story is that he will hike through the "hundred mile wilderness" (remote and highly isolated for 100 miles) with plans to finish on Wednesday, June 22nd.  He will fly home on Thursday, June 23rd after a celebratory night out with Ryan, Paul, Ice Ax, and another person who is doing the third leg of the Triple Crown (the friend says the AT is the most difficult, even though it is shorter than the other two trails). There is no word from Matt, which has Ward concerned.  He hoped they would finish at the same time.

Wednesday will be special for Ward.  Thursday will be special for us.

Thursday, June 9, 2011

The Box

It arrived marked "Priority Mail", addressed to "Ward Russell".  That could be Ward or it could be me.  Either way, we knew it was from our hiker, and we knew the box contained his "stuff".  Beth opened the box anticipating a note and a few other items from Ward. She was met by the foulest stench imaginable to mankind.  Worse than boy socks.  Worse than a condemned fraternity house facing foreclosure.  Worse than . . . well, you get the message.

The box contained the following items:
Waterproof camera shock case
Gold Bond powder
Band aids and moleskin
A very cheap Snap Clip
3 plastic grocery bags (is he finally recycling?)
A light down vest (the one purchased about a week into the trek)
Parachute cord
A bottle of Mrs. Dash's Seasoning (has he become a lazy, cheap version of Bobby Flay?)
A sleeping pad (the one purchased about a month ago)
2 sleeping bag stuff sacks (mostly filled with stuff above)
Boot insoles (hi-tech, custom-fit shock absorbers)
The Spot

The message was clear, especially when we saw the orange Spot.  He's tired.  He has his eye on the finish.  He doesn't want anything extraneous, even if it might save his life.  No need for band aids, moleskin, or even Gold Bond.  He's almost through.  Ditching the Spot was the exclamation mark.  He no longer needs this stuff, and he's going to finish with the lightest possible load, even if that means family and friends can no longer track his whereabouts.  He seems to like going rogue for a few days, meaning no one can reach him.  He will find us if he needs us.

But he did call home tonight while we were having dinner, following George's graduation convocation.  Of course, George was quite tired after last night's prom.  He had a good time, but was most relieved to have found his tuxedo pants, wallet, and car keys around 3:00 in the afternoon, the day after the prom.  George stood up when they were recognizing people for grand accomplishments, even though he wasn't really part of the group being recognized.  Lots of laughs from his friends.  That's what George wanted - laughs, and to stretch his legs during a very long ceremony (aren't they all long!).  We love George.  He lights up everything around our house - sometimes to excess.  George graduates Friday morning and it looks like he's heading to East Africa where he may have the opportunity to hike up Kilimanjaro.  All this happened suddenly.  George was planning to take a Gap year in the Sonoran Desert through NOLS, but the program he signed up for was suddenly cancelled due to low participation.  NOLS offered a discount that enables him to go to Africa and then somewhere else in the Spring before he enrolls at Elon University in fall 2012.  Things always work out for George.  He will do well in life.

Back to Ward . . . He was tired and wet.  Today's rains were the worst he's hiked in.  The group finally gave up and found a hostel in Andover, ME (yes, he's in Maine - Section 11 - the final section).  One of his first comments was "now I understand why so many people quit in the early parts of Maine".  He doesn't plan to quit.

We talked for a long time.  His pack and pack cover constantly filled with water today.  At one point he had at least a gallon of water in the cover (I think a gallon of water weighs 8 lbs - too lazy to hit "The Google" at this hour).  He must have had time on his hands, because he gave me a list of every shelter he has stayed in since May 23rd.  I have been able to document each night's stayover with the exception of a few in Massachusetts.  He says he can get those to me soon.  I was really pleased he remembered to give the locations.

We mostly talked about logistics and the possibility of our visiting him at the finish and maybe hiking the last miles with him.  In Ward fashion, he said he was indifferent, but then mentioned that we would need to get an early start if we wanted to reach the top with him.  He is already planning 18 miles on the last day, with the last 5 going up Mt. Katahdin.  We don't know exactly what day he'll arrive, so everything is up in the air with us.  He seems to think he's less than two weeks away.  That is hard for me to believe.  He is planning some big days as he moves northward, including a personal goal of a 40-mile day.  We'll see.  He tends to accomplish a goal once is set, so I would not be surprised if he pulls it off.

I think he liked hearing news from home.  He set the stage for sitting around the house for a couple of weeks, just to recover.  That will probably last three days before he heads out to see friends.  He's also looking forward to having friends visit him at home.  Before we finished our call he mentioned that he saw his first moose today.  It wasn't during the hike, but was instead during the time he was waiting along the side of a road for a ride (hitchhiking).  The moose simply walked across the road.  As he was telling the story, our not-so-Great Dane, Sarge darted past me.  Ward chucked when I described our own moose (Sarge) galloping around the house.  Stories from home can be good, especially during difficult times.

Sunday, June 5, 2011

Off the Mountain

Ward called around 6:15 PM yesterday (Saturday).  He was in Gorham, NH with several other hikers (he is traveling with a larger group now).  The weather let up on Saturday and they were able to hike over Mt. Washington and then to lower elevations where they found a ride into Gorham.  They plan to hitch back to the trail today and then finish the hike back into Gorham.  We were relieved to hear from him.

The weather conditions were the worst he could imagine.  At some point he and some others tried to hike in the high winds, but they only made about 300 yards before turning back.  The tips of his fingers are still numb from the cold.  They were fortunate to be able to stay at the hut, which is actually more like a house.  It was still cold, and he had to wear a down coat all day while waiting around.  The hut typically charges people to stay, but they were given free accommodations and meals in exchange for work, as there was no way they could leave the safety of the shelter.  They cleaned the hut, folded sheets and washed dishes.  "Work for Stay" is common on the trail.

The "Whites" have been his least favorite experience so far.  They are incredibly rocky and steep, such that movement is more about climbing than hiking (he stopped using his trekking poles).  His knees are bothering him a lot - both knees, not just the one which was injured several years ago requiring surgery.

I offered to pay for his hotel room and a good meal for the night, for which he was very thankful.  They are planning on Chinese food.  (I can imagine them sitting around all day on Friday, dreaming about what they would eat when reaching a town).  Matt is a day behind him at this point.  We hope to hear from him again on Sunday night when he returns to Gorham.

End

Friday, June 3, 2011

Update from Mt. Washington

Text message from Ward - June 3, 2011 at 10:22 AM

Terrible weather on mt. Washington.  stayed at lakes of the clouds hut last night and probable tonight.  Bad snow, winds over 100 mph on top and around 15 degrees.

Wednesday, June 1, 2011

Mt. Washington

We do not know Ward's exact location.  The weather conditions prevented the Spot signal from reaching satellites for most of the past three weeks.  Ward called on Monday to let us know it may be several days before we talk again.  When I asked about the Spot he said his headlamp batteries are running low, so he's saving the Spot batteries in case they are needed for the headlamp. 

He's carrying 5 days of food supplies as he enters "the Whites" of New Hampshire.  From what we can tell he will be at or near Mt. Washington today (Wednesday).  At 6,288 feet Mt. Washington is the highest peak in the Northeastern U.S.  It is notorious for extreme weather conditions, even in the summer months, and held the record for the highest recorded wind speed until 1996 (thank you Wikipedia).

As of 7:59 PM this evening, the Mount Washington Observatory reports the following conditions:

Summit Wind Speed - Current - 55.6 MPH, 24-Hr Peak - 89.2 MPF
Summit Temperature - 55F.

And from the site http://www.mountwashington.org/weather/ for today.  A lot going on this forecast period, all due to a strong low centered over eastern Canada that will be bringing a significant impact to the summits over the forecast period. To start, this morning, a warm, moist air flow will continue to keep the summits in the fog or under cloudy skies as a strong cold front approaches from the west. The warm surge of air ahead of the incoming cold front may reach into the 60s which would approach our record for the day of 63F, but this seems unlikely given the current set up. The warm, moist air however will be a primer for the rest of the days events. As the front approaches, the warm moist air will allow for a few scattered rain showers or thunderstorms to pop up on its onset and as it passes this afternoon and evening, these scattered showers are expected to develop into strong to severe convective cells. These cells are expected to bring strong rain, large hail of an inch in diameter or more, strong and sudden downdraft winds, and continuous lightning, as well as the slight potential for tornadoes in lower lying areas. These convective cells are expected to continue into the evening as the front passes towards the east.

Behind this front, a very cold air mass is expected, dropping temperatures from 50s today to the 20s by tomorrow. So as a trailing upper level trough passes into Thursday, a few upslope snow showers will be possible in addition to glaze ice or rime ice formation on summits that remain in the fog. And lastly, this passing low will make for a very tight pressure gradient that will bring high winds over the forecast period with possible 100 mph gusts overnight. Century winds may also be possible with the thunderstorm downdrafts but the 100 mph gusts overnight will be purely from the gradient driven winds,  so they wont be nearly as short lived as the downdrafts may be.

Click thisWebcam link for views from and of the mountain.

Mt. Washington has been a concern of mine after hearing and reading stories about the mountain and hikers.  Please keep Ward in your prayers.

End

Thursday, May 26, 2011

Mom's Note to Dad

This will be all jumbled up...so head's up!

First, he's in Hanover and told me his package didn't arrive in West Hartford...I didn't think I even sent it there and he has checked the po and it is in Hanover.  He's as whacky as I am.   He did not like the pack he recently bought and took it back, where I don't know, and exchanged it.  We should receive a pkg from him soon-he thought yesterday---it will contain his old backpack, among other things.  Ward mentioned that he may create a bounce box and send a few things forward....I probably sent way too much whey protein powder last time as well as some foods like Nutella, tuna, hummus (World Mkt-no refrigeration required!) and a few other small necessities.

Since Matt met friends and then didn't go to Jordan's lake house, he is now a little ahead of them, perhaps 2 days.  Jordan has gone off the trail for his grandmother's or great grandmother's 100 bday and a 5 year college reunion.  He plans to skip this section and  do it after Katahdin and so may reconnect with these guys after these events.  Of the other 2 guys (one named Paul, one named Ryan-both are 26 or 27ish- one went to college for awhile and joined Marines and is planning on returning to college soon (?) and the other went into the army and he plans to attend college later....)One of these guys had a bad fall in VT and his leg is really bothering him so he is taking it easy for a few days.... Therefore, in an attempt to not get too far ahead of him, Ward and the other fellow  only hiked 15 yesterday, 5 early today and are stopping in Hanover for a night or two.  I think they are staying at a shelter, not in town. ***Just talked to Ward - MAY wind up staying at a ladies' house tonight [Dad's editorial:  Is she good looking and is she smart enough to attend Dartmouth?]... On the fall, Ward said he has disliked VT more than any other state because (1) it's so rocky and they have all fallen 4-5 times a day.  They're all a little beaten up and sore (he's been sore during much of the trail and takes one or two advil every day...)  and (2) because the entire trail in VT has been under about 5 inches of water due to these abnormal weather patterns.  The flooded trail is not normal and it is unfortunate that they have had to experience it.

Another problem has been the black flies AND mosquitoes.  Ward said they could scarcely sleep last night due to the mosquitoes....that even with his netting and he has broken down and gotten some bug spray, he probably has over 100 bites.  The mosquitoes get thru the netting at night.  He will be sleeping in his tent for awhile to help control some of that at night.

I think given all these situations, he is a little weary....ready to get home.  Talked about heading to Sea Gull when he gets home (after some Rand R and good meals from mom!) to visit old counselor buddies.  I think he will enjoy that and catching up with his college and local friends.

Ward says his little group of 5 (now separated) is in line to finish behind one other guy,...and they may catch him.  Ward noted that being first wasn't a huge deal to them...they just are ready TO FINISH.  The guy ahead is Trail Blazer.  There is another guy who isn't too far behind and he started Mar 15....

Ward went to a library in Hanover today to cool off, play on his phone I suspect, and uploaded some photos to Walgreens.  He and his pal are headed to the movies late afternoon to see Thor....(The Hangover II isn't playing there yet -bummer!)  Ward and fellow hiker will take their packs into the movies as a precaution as they cannot afford to lose their homes! 

Ward has given us a range of finish dates and now he thinks since the one fellow is slowing them up that maybe his finish time will be closer to the 20th which is about mid way in the range he provided.

***********Ward was on fb today and noticed that George was wearing Ward's  Costa del Sol sunglasses at a social gathering in Gboro... I called George - he did, in fact, have them on. 

Sunday, May 22, 2011

Killington

Ward called around noon today.  He was on or near Killington, a ski resort in VT.  The top of Killington is the coldest place I've ever been.  He said the spring-summer temperature was ok, but there was some leftover snow on the ground.  The weather has been terrible - rain every day.  We cannot pick up a Spot signal, so it's been difficult to follow his trek, but he indicated he is making a lot of miles each day.  At this stage he just wants to finish, and he's pushing himself hard, doing 25-27 miles a day.

He's hiking with several other people now.  One is the fellow from CT that Beth and I met in Damascus, VA.  His name is Jordan.  Jordan's family has a lake house either in NH or near there.  They plan to make Hanover, NH on Monday, then stay a couple of nights at the house, with a zero on Tuesday.  Good fortune!  Hanover is home to Dartmouth, so it is easy to understand why they would want a layover in the area.

There are two other hikers whose names I did not recognize and then Matt.  They expect Matt to fall a day behind by the end of today.  I'm not sure if that's because he is slowing down, or if it is because of a planned visit with friends in the area.  I'm sure they will get together again.  It seems fitting that Ward and Matt finish at the same time, given the time they have had together. 

I asked about wildlife, but he didn't recall seeing anything out of the ordinary.  He did mention to Beth sometime during the week that Matt saw a moose.

We had to cut our conversation short (both of us were about to have lunch), but planned to talk again on Monday night when he makes his destination.  Stay tuned . . .

Tuesday, May 17, 2011

Section 9 Complete!

First the stats:

Springer Mountain, GA to the southern border of Vermont.

Total miles hiked: 1584.4
Days on trail:  103 days minus 13 zeros = 90 hiking days
Average miles per day:  15.4 miles including zeros, 17.6 excluding zeros

Number of times cursing self for hiking in the rain, sleeping in the cold, eating the same food day after day, battling soreness and fatigue, and wondering why he traded his spring semester in college for a never-ending trail:  Thousands, tens of thousands, and possibly hundreds of thousands.

He called home Friday night and again Sunday.  He and Matt have been through lots of rainy weather and they are weary.  They spent Friday, Saturday, and Sunday in hotels along the way.  The orginal plan was to take a zero on Sunday, but they decided to keep moving - in the rain.  I talked to him again today (Tuesday).  He's taking a zero in Bennington, VT.  More rain . . . and more to come.  It's a good thing he's been saving his money, as even cheap hotels become costly, especially for a 20-year-old.

Ward was supposed to pick up a package we advance shipped to him as he passed through Dalton, MA.  Unfortunately, he did not make it to Dalton before the post office closed at noon.  As of Friday he was planning to call the post office to request a forward shipment to Bennington.  I don't know if it was a phone call, or Carolina Kid's suggestion to leave a forwarding address card at the post office, but somehow the package made its way to Bennington where he picked it up today.  He had to hike a long way from his hotel to the post office, and when he arrived he realized he didn't bring the gear that he planned to ship back home.  He didn't want to walk to the post office again, so he will carry extra gear until he reaches the next drop point.  Either that, or he'll wise up and find another solution.  I suspect he'll find another alternative.

We always ask about wildlife and conditions.  He saw a porcupine last Thursday or Friday.  I jokingly asked if he touched it, and he said "no" in a somewhat serious tone (he would have touched it 10 years ago).  The porcupine knew the drill.  He treks to a particular shelter where sweaty hikers rest at the end of the day.  The salt from their perspiration penetrates the edge of the shelter's wood decking, creating something like a salt-lick for the porcupine.  When he talked to Beth on Sunday he brought up the fact that he saw a small bear near Fort Royal, VA.  The bear was harmless and scampered off very quickly.  It's funny he never brought up the bear before now.  Matt also saw a bear . . . a large one . . . while hiking in PA.  Ward and I are allergic to bears.  We discovered this as the bears walked by us during Barnum & Bailey's circus parade at the Greensboro Coliseum when he was a child.  Our reaction to the bear dander was so intense we had to move to the concourse.  I wonder if he had an allergic reaction to the bear he saw in Fort Royal. 

As mentioned earlier, they are exhausted - not only physically, but emotionally.  As Ward described it, he "wakes every day and just walks.  The trail looks the same day after day, and you know it will just keep going".  Ward, who is fastidious about his grooming, hasn't shaved or had a hair cut since last January, and he's ready for a "clean up" (I wanted him to get a shave and cut his hair very short upon reaching the northeast, so that he could better find any ticks that might attach themselves to him, but he will not do so.  He did find lots of ticks until the last week or so, but not more recently.  I hope he's keeping an eye for signs of infection, as Lyme disease is a real risk for hikers.) 

According to Smokestack, and their own calculations, they are about 5 weeks from Katahdin, which would mean a finish in late June.  Of course, they are facing some of the most difficult terrain of the trail, they are exhausted, and they don't know what else they might run into.  Carolina Kid knows the deal from his own experience, and passed on good info - it's tough going from here.  Also, a lot can happen in the next 700 miles.

Wednesday, May 11, 2011

Section 8 Complete!

Ward called home last Sunday from near Windale, NY to talk and to wish mom a happy Mother's Day.  He spent the previous night in a nearby shelter then caught a train into New York City.  Matt also went into the city to stay with friends.  Ward spent part of the day there, then took the train back to the trail area where he found a hotel to enjoy some solitary down time.

Beth and I were astonished that he ate at a Subway in NYC, but understood when he explained the need to save cash.  Interestingly, another jacket ($$$$ . . . even on sale . . . at least in my opinion) arrived in the mail from REI a couple of days after we spoke.  This one looks like a modern-day version of a jacket Sir Edmund Hillary would have worn, and is apparently for next year at school.  Winters are hell in Raleigh.  No $ for good food, but plenty for the right gear.  We each have our own priorities.

He's still working on gear swap outs.  We shipped his old gas stove to him, along with a few other items, and he will send a shipment home, along with a memory card of pictures.  Let's hope he includes people and places in some of these.

He hasn't seen interesting wildlife, but sees 10 - 15 black and water snakes a day - none of the poisonous variety so far.  One day he was trying to refill his water bottles and everywhere he stopped he found a snake.  He finally gave up and moved on without refilling.

We knew he would finish Section 8 on Monday morning, and confirmed this later by tracking him through the Spot, and through a text message exchange.  By the time of this writing (Wednesday night) he is through Connecticut and 7 or 8 miles into Massachusetts.  He mentioned on the phone that the terrain is becoming more varied after the relative flatness of New Jersey and New York.  I can see from the map of his trek that he climbed a small- to medium-sized mountain today.

Here are the stats since Springer Mountain, GA through Section 8:

Total miles hiked - 1,446.9
Days on trail - 96 total - 13 zeros = 86 hiking days.
Average daily miles - 15.1 including zeros, 17.4 excluding zeros

He should finish Section 9, covering CT and MA by early next week.

End

Thursday, May 5, 2011

Checking In

Ward called tonight from Fort Montgomery, NY outside West Point.  He's staying at a place called the Garrison House with Matt and someone else they met along the trail.  They finished dinner earlier - barbecue . . . pork barbecue . . in New York.  Hmmm . . . something doesn't mesh.   The last several days have been good, despite what appears to be rainy weather.  Yesterday was very cold and rainy, but the other days were simply overcast.  Today's weather was very good.  They routinely log 25 mile days now.

Smokestack, who is from New Jersey, and who left them in Virginia, met up with them again.  They hiked together for a couple of days and then Smokestack's wife gave them rides to Harriman, NY last night and back to the trail this morning.  They stayed in a hotel last night.  It sounds as if he and Matt are happy to be back together, and that they very much enjoyed their reunion with Smokestack.  There aren't a lot of people on the trail at this time.  Perhaps they will meet some South-bounders soon.

The flies are particularly bad at this time of year - mostly mosquitos, but also some black flies.  The mosquitos are the worst, such that they sleep in their tents (inside shelters) for protection.  I asked about bug repellant with Deet, but that is apparently a no-no, as prolonged use is dangerous.  Things have changed a lot in the past 40 years.  When I was a kid we chased the mosquito truck through town as it dispersed a fog of DDT while driving up and down the streets of Richlands, NC.  We had a blast doing this until Joe Matthews stuck his Frisbee on the blower's intake valve, ruining the motor.  I don't remember the truck ever coming through town after that evening.

Ward says he can see the skyline of NY along the Pallisades Parkway.  Matt is planning a trip into the city.  Ward is considering a trip as well, but also thinks he may want a rest break.  I'm encouraging him to go into the city.  It's fun there - worth a double- or triple-zero.

We talked about supplies and such.  He's switched his gas stove for an alcohol burner somewhere in Virginia.  Now he wants the gas stove.  He likes to switch gear.  It must break the monotony.  Whatever works . . .

I hope he spends some time in the city . . .

Sunday, May 1, 2011

Section 7 Complete!

Ward arrived in Delaware Water Gap, PA late Friday afternoon.  He was fortunate to find a room at a local hotel, and even more fortunate they did not check his ID.  Many hotels will not let rooms to anyone under age 21, and this particular hotel had signs all around the lobby emphasizing that very point.  I do not know if this is the law or if it is simply hotel policy.

The hotel's online site showed a number of activities in The Pub, including a Country Dance on Saturday night.  When I mentioned this to Ward, he was not at all interested.  He had already purchased a pizza and planned to eat in his room watch Two and a Half Men, a real treat for him.

He and Matt plan to get together on Sunday morning, but it's possible Matt will not return until late Sunday.  If the late scenario plays out, then they will be almost a day apart.  In this case it sounds as if they have a plan to actually meet up in the next few days since Ward doesn't want to take another zero.  I suspect Matt will log extra miles to catch up.

The numbers since Springer Mountain, GA:


Total Miles: 1,285.5
Days on Trail:  87 Total minus 12 Zeros = 75 Hiking Days
Average Daily Miles:  14.8 Including Zeros, 17.1 Excluding Zeros

The next section, covering New Jersey and New York is relatively short at 161.4 miles.  He should be in Connecticut by May 10 or 11.

End

Wednesday, April 27, 2011

Forward Progress

Ward called from Hamburg, PA two nights ago (Monday), minutes after I arrived home, and just as I was checking his progress on Beth's computer.  The map showed him to be located about a mile off the trail, with the last ping from an empty lot containing heavy construction equipment.  It appeared from the map that he was in an area of new development - more box stores and fast food restaurants.  He explained that he was having a healthy dinner at McDonald's, with plans to re-supply at Wal Mart before returning to the trail where he would sleep in his tent (since there were no shelters nearby).

It was around 7:45 PM, with darkness setting in, which was disconcerting since he was by himself.  I suggested that he stay in a hotel, but he didn't want to spend the money, nor did he think one was nearby.  He was surprised when I mentioned the Microtel across the street (I saw it on "the Google"), and he was very thankful when I offered to pay for a night's stay.  Pennsylvania has not been kind, and he's been by himself much of the time, so I felt he needed a treat.

He called back later after checking into the hotel and after charging his phone.  Locals tell him the rains of the past weeks resulted in the worst flooding they can recall.  He is hiking in standing water in many sections of the trail. I asked about Matt.  Matt is a couple of days ahead of him, but plans to take time off.  They should catch up with one another this coming Friday or Saturday when Matt returns.  This will likely be along the PA-NJ border.

I asked if it was lonely, and he said it had actually been interesting.  He met someone a few nights earlier at the Doyle Hotel, who was hiking the trail in 100 days.  They spent the next night together at a shelter, before the fellow moved on.  Ward is moving at a good clip, but not at a 100-day rate.  A night or two earlier, he stayed in a two-story shelter designed for 20 people.  He arrived there early, and then some hikers came in behind him.  Before long there were even more hikers, and the shelter was nearly full.  Then, a large group of middle-aged women showed up, ready for a big party (many did not spend the night at the shelter).  It turns out this group has a reunion at the shelter each year.  The location works perfectly for them because it is close to a parking lot.  Anyway, he enjoyed the night and all the leftovers these ladies gave to the other hikers.

Somehow the topic of snakes came up in our conversation.  I heard and read that there are lots of rattlesnakes in the rocky terrain of PA, but didn't expect him to see any given the time of year.  He hasn't seen rattlesnakes, but did mention coming across 4 or 5 non-poisonous snakes along the way, mostly water snakes that hang out around areas where he refills his water supply.  He mentioned finding a tick on his leg earlier in the day.  Tick fever is a BIG concern, especially in the northeast starting this time of year.  I wish he would shave his head and beard to make it easier to find any hiding ticks.  He's also encountered lots of mosquitos in PA.  It's a good thing he bought headgear netting when he was in DC.  It came in handy and he'll also need it when he encounters the black flies that come out in May and June.

We talked again tonight (Wednesday), and he was in a hostel in Palmerton, PA.  He didn't have a lot of new news to share, but did mention that the terrain is now very rocky, and that the trail (unnecessarily) traverses giant piles of rocks.  I suppose these are classified as PUDs - Pointless Up and Downs, which some local trail clubs insist on building to prove themselves to others.

I look forward to hearing from him when he reaches the PA-NJ border.  He's planning to take a zero there - his first since leaving Harpers Ferry.  I think he's ready to leave PA.

End

Thursday, April 21, 2011

@^*%%Y Weather

It's been tough the last several days.  Heavy rains have made much of the trail nearly impassable due to flooding.  Yesterday was a "nero" - nearly zero considering Ward hiked only 4 miles.  He had to find high ground in several areas, and walked in deep water for several more parts of the trail.  He stayed in Boiling Springs, PA last night and then hiked 25 miles to Duncannon.  He's staying in the Doyle Hotel tonight, a landmark and must-stay place for hikers.  He called home after dinner tonight, requesting "stuff" that he ordered last week and a knife (I'm guessing he needs a knife because he's getting close to the biggest hellhole on earth - Newark, NJ), and mentioned that a stranger bought him dinner because he was thru-hiking.  There are many nice people in the world - even in Pennsylvania.

The weather outlook is not good for the next several days, and Ward thinks his daily mileage will be down.  We encouraged more days off - wait it out and then go hard, but he will not do that.  Matt is 2-3 days ahead, but plans to take time off soon.  It may be at least a week before they get together again.

End

Tuesday, April 19, 2011

Section 6 Complete!

Ward returned to the trail last Friday (4/15) after spending a few days in DC with Beth and Poppy.  They drove him back to Harpers Ferry so he could hike a few (15) miles on Friday afternoon.  The train departed DC late, and its only a 50-mile drive from DC, so driving made sense.  Ward bought his 4th pair of hiking shoes in Harpers.  It sounds as if the 2nd and 3rd pair were simply the wrong shoe for him.  Not bad shoes - just a bad style.  Anyway, he changed again. 

They had a great time in DC, and of course, they ate VERY well.  Ward relayed a couple of stories - one about staying in a hostel that caught fire (chimney fire), and another about an Italian couple who treated he and Matt so well at their restaurant in Buchanan, VA (pronounced Buck-cannon by locals even though the town is named after President James Buchanan).  The Italian couple live above their restaurant and invited the two hikers to their apartment for dessert and drinks after dinner.  Beth can elaborate more on their trip and will likely add her comments to this post.

He and Matt have been apart for at least a week, with plans to re-connect (maybe) within a week.  A lot depends on Matt's visits with family and friends in his hometown Philadelphia, and a possible call-up for a week of reserve duty.  Ward moved through Maryland by himself and finished Section 6 on Saturday.  As of Saturday, he has hiked 1,045.9 miles in 74 days, including zeros.  His daily average mileage is 14.1 including zeros, and 16.9 excluding zeros.

He is now in Pennsylvania, a section that is very rocky, but not necessarily steep in terms of mountains.  I have yet to read or hear a positive comment about hiking in PA.  I hope Ward's experience is different.  When we connect we like to talk about how close he is getting to New York - positive thoughts.  He should be near the city in late-April or early May, and hopes to work in a fun trip that may include a couple of zeros.  Perhaps the bearded hiker and singing naked cowboy will meet on the streets of New York.  That would make for an interesting photo.

Tuesday, April 12, 2011

Halfway!

Ward made it to Harpers Ferry yesterday, the halfway point on the AT.  He has now hiked 1,015 miles in 69 days, an average of 14.7 miles per day.  Excluding zeros, his average is 16.9 miles per day. 

Ward planned to camp outside Harpers Ferry on Monday night, then hike into town Tuesday morning.  He ended up hiking longer and (a reminder of Forrest Gump running) and ended up spending the night in a hostel before catching a train to DC for a few days.  He checked in and had his picture made at the AT Conservancy.  He is the second thru-hiker to make this milestone in 2011.  The first person is a couple of days ahead of him.  Matt spent time with family the last few days, so he is probably close behind.

The halfway point is a big deal.  It's time for some R&R.  I'm sure Beth and Poppy will return home with some good stories.

Sunday, April 10, 2011

Section 5 Complete!

Ward completed Section 5 then hitch-hiked into Front Royal, VA on Thursday.  He stayed in a hotel Thursday and Friday nights, taking a zero on Friday.  We spoke briefly, and he indicated he liked the Shenandoahs despite continuing cold and rainy weather.  The grades were more gradual and there were waysides along the trail where he could rest and re-supply.  Very nice.

He and Matt had several long days, so a rest day was much needed.  The two of them split up one day.  Ward cut his day short due to rain, but Matt pushed on.  Ward made up for the miles the next day and met up with Matt again the following day.  Matt is spending time with family, so he and Ward are presumably apart now. 

A few stats:

Cumulative, Springer Mountain GA to Front Royal, VA
Miles hiked:  961.2
Days on trail:   65 total - 8 zeros = 57 hiking days
Daily average miles hiked:  14.8 including zeros, 16.9 excluding zeros

Section 5 Only
Days on trail:  5 total, no zeros
Miles hiked:  107.2
Daily average miles hiked:  21.4

Ward began hiking the last section of Virginia on Saturday, and plans to be in Harpers Ferry, WV next Monday or early Tuesday (4/11 or 4/12).  Harpers Ferry is the home of the AT Conservancy, and is considered the half-way point of the AT (bean-counters and nit-pickers will note that it is not exactly half-way in terms of mileage).  He will then take a train from Harpers to DC where Beth and Poppy are meeting in for several days of much needed and much deserved rest.  Matt is planning time off as well.  The two of them will meet in the next couple of weeks.

Sunday, April 3, 2011

A Great Weekend (& Section 4 Complete!)

Beth and I, along with George and Camille, met Ward near Waynesboro, VA on Friday night.  He was at a place called Reeds Gap, where the AT crosses the Blue Ridge Parkway.  His original plan was to stay in a shelter Friday night, then hike to the end of the section near U.S. 64 between Waynesboro and Charlottesville on Saturday morning, but that plan changed due to snow on Thursday night.  Instead, he stayed with us Friday night, then returned to the trail Saturday morning.

We had a great weekend together - the first one as a complete family since Ward departed in February.  We did not book a hotel until Thursday night, as we did not know exact plans.  Flexibility is a necessity!  Because of this there were few places with suites for a family of five.  The hotel we eventually booked advertised accommodations for five.  It turns out they also accommodate . . . pets . . . real, live ones . . of all shapes and sizes.  Interesting, especially since the hotel is part of a national chain.  I must say that the dogs walking up and down the hallways seemed to be well-behaved.  It's probably a good thing we didn't take our Great Dane, Sarge.  He's not always well-behaved, and we certainly didn't have room for him in our cramped room.  Sarge enjoyed his time at home, especially the times when Poppy dropped by for feedings.  Poppy and Sarge see eye-to-eye on most things.

The past few weeks were tough, filled lots of cold, rainy (and a few snowy) days.  In fact, there have been only 11 "good" weather days since Ward and Matt left Springer.  I think both of them are tiring, and in need warm weather and a break consisting of more than a zero here and there.  Smokestack livened things up for them, but he is returning to New Jersey after the end of this section.

Around Reeds Gap Ward came across a trail "official" who told him he was the 3rd remaining thru-hiker for the season.  Who knows if this is correct.  Cold weather and lack of companionship are two pitfalls of leaving early, so it is possible a lot of others have dropped out.  Of course, a benefit of leaving early is less hot weather later on.

Beth, George, Camille, and I hiked toward Ward on Saturday morning and then turned around to complete Section 4 with him.  George is graduating from high school this year, and wanted to take a "gap" year hiking the AT from Katahdin southbound to Springer.  Instead, he is entering a 1-Year National Outdoor Leadership School (NOLS) Sonoran Desert program this coming October before entering college in 2012.  Camille is like her mother and enjoys shopping.

According to Beth, our hike entailed rugged terrain that crossed over a roaring river under the spray of a waterfall, leaps over large boulders, and a horrible hail storm before luckily finding Ward along the trail.  In reality we hiked in moderate terrain, crossed a small stream, kicked a few pebbles down a hill, and walked through one minute of sleet before finding Ward about where we expected.  It was fun being together.  (Actually, Beth did quite well, but we do disagree about what constitutes hail).

We did all the routine re-supplies and bought new shoes for Ward (the second pair lasted almost two sections, but reasonable mileage), then left Ward at the beginning of Section 5 near the Shenandoah National Park.  He previously called Matt to offer a ride re-supply, etc., but Matt had already made arrangements.   Before we left we saw Matt heading out just ahead of Ward.  Funny, we always run into Matt.  I'm glad they are together again - almost as if it's meant to be.

A few stats:

Total Miles Hiked:  854 since Springer Mountain, GA
Days Since Springer:  60 Total minus 8 Zeros = 52 Hiking Days.
Average Daily Miles since Springer: 14.2 Including Zeros, 16.4 Excluding Zeros
Average Daily Miles in Section 4:  17.4 Including Zeros, 18.9 Excluding Zeros

End

Tuesday, March 29, 2011

Backtracking

I was surprised when Ward called Monday morning from Daleville, VA.  He was in Daleville when we spoke last Friday, so we assumed he was well on his way to Buena Vista, VA.  The Spot GPS also showed him hiking toward Buchanan on Friday, so everything seemed to be going according to plan.  However, because of the weather, there were no Spot markings after late Friday, so we had no way of knowing an exact position.

It turns out everything is OK.  He and Matt, and their new friend "Smokestack" stayed in a hostel near Buchanan on Saturday night.  On Sunday they decided to take a zero to wait out the snow storm.  Unfortunately, the hostel did not have room for them on Sunday night, so they hitchhiked back to Daleville to find a place to stay.  They resumed their hike Monday morning from the Buchanan area, so all is well.

Smokestack is the new friend's trail name, presumably assigned because he is a chain smoker.  Smokestack is 30 to 35 years old and from New Jersey.  Ward doesn't know Smokestack's real name but he likes having him hike with them - keeps things interesting.  Ward and Matt do not have trail names to our knowledge, and it doesn't sound as if Ward will seek one for himself (not surprising at all).  I am hopeful that someone else will assign a name to him very soon, as it seems to add to the overall experience.

Ward also mentioned that he ran into the fellow from Connecticut that Beth and I met when we were in Damascus, VA.  They met during the backtrack to Daleville, which implies the fellow is about a day behind Ward.  Ward and Matt left Springer Mountain earlier than most thru-hikers, and as a result they haven't met as many people as they otherwise would have met.  I hope Mr. Connecticut catches up with them soon.  It's a long way to Katahdin and they need new personalities around to keep things interesting.

Friday, March 25, 2011

Brief Update from Roanoke, VA Area

Beth and Ward spoke briefly yesterday.  He and Matt are now hiking with another person - a fellow in his 30s who hiked most of the AT last year, but who had to skip a few sections.  He's making up for those sections now.  We do not know how long they'll be together, but it sounds like a good thing for now, and surely makes things more interesting.

Ward passed the 700-mile mark yesterday, and by the end of the day he will be more than a third of the way through the trek.  He's logging a lot of miles each day - an average of 21 miles per day over the past two weeks, excluding zeros. 

We shipped another sleeping bag to him, which he will pick up today and a local outfitter's drop point.  His current bag is rated to 0 degrees, and it's simply too warm now that we're in springtime.  He wanted my bag, rated to 20 degrees, which has the added benefit of being lighter.  On a side note, the manufacturer of his first bag (changed out in the first two weeks) accepted a return and gave Ward credit for future purchases.  REI gave partial credit for his cracked boots.  In both cases I think the sellers realized they were dealing with a thru-hiker who was fair and reasonable, and not someone trying to take advantage of the situation.

I expect Ward to take a zero in the next couple of days.  We're planning around a possible visit next weekend, to include Ward's brother George, his uncle Brooks Bossong, and our friend Todd Klass.  This could get interesting. 

End

Sunday, March 20, 2011

Section 3 Complete!

Ward called from Pearisburg, VA near the West Virginia border.  He completed the Southwest VA Section (3rd of 11 AT sections) yesterday, and plans to take a zero today - Sunday.  Matt was picked up by a friend late Friday and took a zero on Saturday.  They will catch up with one another and resume hiking together on Monday.  It sounds like things are going well, especially with the new pack and lightweight hiking shoes.  The terrain is surprisingly rocky.  They logged 22-24 miles miles for several days over the past week, but cut one day short due to rain, and then made way to nearby Atkins, VA.

A few facts:

Cumulative miles since Springer - 627.7
Total days:  46 - 6 zero days = 41 hiking days
Average daily mileage:  13.6 including zero days, 15.7 excluding zero days

Click here for more information about the Virginia sections of the AT.

Monday, March 14, 2011

Abingdon

Beth, Poppy, and I spent the past weekend with Ward in Abingdon, VA.  At one time we discussed staying in Damascus, but Ward let us know ahead of time that we would probably want to stay elsewhere.  Damascus is a very small town geared for hikers.  Wad knows we are more interested in food and a decent hotel, and my guess is Ward wanted the same.

Abingdon is nice town at its core (downtown), but it's becoming more box-store/commercial around the edges.  The downtown area has the look and feel of an earlier time  We had dinner at The Tavern on Saturday night.  The Tavern is housed in a building built in 1779, and has a nice, old-feel atmosphere with good food served without pretense.  The very beautiful Martha Washington Inn is located downtown, as is the Barter Theatre.  The Barter was built during the Depression and is so-named because people with no money could barter goods to attend productions there.  As the designated State Theatre of Virginia, the Barter offers an unusually wide variety of productions one would not expect from a small town in Southwest Virginia.  I like towns like Abingdon.

We had dinner in a non-descript italian restaurant on Friday night.  I now understand why they laughed when i called and asked if reservations were needed.  The most memorable part of the evening was the nice lady that Beth and I noticed flirting with Poppy as we were leaving.  I can't remember what she looked like other than the fact that she had a 4 1/2-foot long pony tail.

I wish I could remember all the stories Ward tells.  He stayed in Kincora hostel near Hampton, TN last week where he enjoyed hearing stories and trail history from the owner, Bob Peoples.  Mr. Peoples is something of a legend, and even hiked with Earl Shaffer, the first person to thru-hike the AT.  He also organizes project groups every year to build bridges, paths, shelters, or anything important to the trail.  H sounds like a really neat person.  Ward has also crossed paths with a number of college students on spring break.  I never thought of going to the mountains for spring break.  Driving to Florida was hard enough for me back then.

We back-tracked to Johnson City, TN on Saturday to revisit Mahoney's, an outfitter that Ward and I found on an earlier trip.  Poppy was very generous and set Ward up with new hiking shoes (to replace the prematurely worn out boots) and a new pack.  Poppy bought a book of maps for himself, which I'm sure he will memorize over the next few days.  The old pack has worked well for the past five years, but it's a bit bulky for a lightweight trek on the AT.  I received a text from Ward tonight, and he says both are working out great.

We dropped Ward off at Beech Mountain road on Sunday morning, in the middle of nowhere.  The snow from Thursday/Friday's storm melted away and the view was completely different than the one from two days earlier.  That eerie, foreboding, and desolate feel was gone.  Ward planned to slackpack 5-6 miles and then meet us at the place where we had planned to meet the previous Friday.  Beth and I returned to Damascus to pick up a Subway tuna-on-white-with-provolone-lettuce-and-banana-pepper sandwich for Ward (which I now understand to be his is favorite) and then gas the car.

At the gas station we spotted a young man in his early 20s who looked (yes, looked) like a thru-hiker.  Beth and I also noticed something about him that gave the appearance of someone from a nice family, even in hiker gear and a beard.  We ran into him again in a coffee shop and asked if he was hiking.  He is.  It turns out he left Springer Mountain on February 14th, 11 days after Ward and Matt.  He is from Connecticut and is pushing hard to finish by mid-June so he can vacation with his family and attend a couple of weddings.  His girlfriend is planning to meet him briefly in a couple of weeks, so he's trying to log miles by himself while he can.  Unfortunately, the grueling pace has taken a toll on him.  He had severe shin splints and needs at least two days of rest before leaving again.  He's at least three days behind Ward and Matt.  I hope they meet up, as he seems like a nice person.

We left Damascus to meet up with Ward.  He and Matt had planned to meet up at a shelter that night.  They ended up finding each other within minutes of when Ward was dropped off at Beech Mountain road.  Too bad for Matt.  I wish we could have carried his pack for him.  He could have used the break.

We left Ward at a parking lot near Mt. Rogers.  There were lots of college students around.  One of them had a puppy - a cute Husky that was curious about everything.  While we were talking the Husky decided to pee on Matt's pack.  Instinct.  The Husky was simply marking his spot over one previously left by a cat in Hot Springs.  Matt is an official animal target.  Let's hope the bears, bobcats, raccoons, and other creatures don't find out.

Sunday, March 13, 2011

Change of Plans

Beth and I left to meet Ward at a pre-arranged pickup point in the Mt. Rogers, VA area last Friday.  We planned to pick up Ward and then let him slackpack 16 miles to another pickup point.  After that we would drive with Ward to nearby Abingdon, VA for a fun weekend.  Poppy (Beth's father and Ward's grandfather) planned to drive up separately and meet us there.

We knew from reports that the weather conditions were poor around the Mt. Rogers area where Ward was hiking.  Still, we assumed that everything was on go.  About 30 minutes before pickup, I received a text message asking that we meet at another point.  Ward could not go any further.  No problem.  We would plug the new location into our phones, or we would follow the map on the GPS.  Wrong.  Because the area was so remote would could not get a cell signal, and the road point where Ward wanted to meet did not show up on the GPS.

The conditions on the mountain were so poor, and we were so concerned about Ward's cryptic text message, that I agreed to do something I rarely do:  we stopped to ask directions at a local convenience store.  The owner was a nice fellow, new to the business, but unfamiliar with the area.  He had gas pumps but no gas (been waiting on a contract for four months).  He tried his best to find the meeting spot, and even called friends.  He eventually sent us on a long trek on a mountain road with poor conditions.  By now we were very concerned, as we were at least 45 minutes late for the planned pickup.  Ward was by himself.  He had to be cold, and we didn't know what else might have happened, since he spent the previous night alone in a remote location (Matt decided to take a zero in nearby Damascus the previous day).

We turned onto a "main" road and drove a few miles, looking for someone who might be able to help.  We happened upon "Beech Mountain Rd" sign - not the one in North Carolina, but the one we wanted.  We came upon it so quickly I had to swerve to make the turn.  Elation, but then uncertainty.  Beech Mountain road was a gravel road in the middle of nowhere, covered in snow.  We drove about 1/4 mile where the road converged with another gravel road.  More confusion.  Were we in the right place and was this still Beech Mountain road?  With nothing to lose, we decided to continue on down the road.  There was an occasional home along the way, usually stuck deep in the woods off the road.  There were no other car tracks in the snow, it was windy, and snowing.  We were anxious, concerned, and about to turn around  for help, when we finally spotted tire tracks leaving a driveway and heading in our the same direction as us.  We decided to stay the course.

After about 3/4 mile the road began to wind in hairpin-like turns.  As usual, Beth asked "do you know what you're doing"?  As we rounded one of the turns I spotted a gray-suited figure in the distance.  The height, the posture, and everything else about the figure was a dead giveaway - it was Ward.  I laughed and Beth asked "what, what!"  Then she saw the figure and we knew all was well.

He had been waiting about 40 minutes, and in the meantime hiked to the top of a nearby hill, where he was able to call Poppy (but not us since we could not receive calls).  He had hiked about 1 1/2 to 2 miles, often crawling below ice-covered, low-hanging Rhododendron to reach the revised pickup point.  We talked and continued down Beech Mountain road and into Damascus where we came across Matt, hiking along the Virginia Creeper trail, heading out of town to resume his journey.  We stopped and Ward explained the conditions to Matt, advising him to wait it out for the day.  Matt seemed relieved, and turned around to hike back into Damascus (funny how hikers will not accept rides for short distances).  He and Ward worked out a plan to meet up on Sunday.

Technology is a wonderful thing, but it's funny how lost and insecure we can become when it doesn't work.  To me this just shows just how vulnerable and and how dependent we have become in recent years.  Of course, Poppy never has this problem, as he doesn't rely on technology.  His computer, his phone, and his GPS rarely ever work properly, so he doesn't trust them.   But Poppy is like "Rain Man" when it comes to maps and distances.  A couple of years ago we were driving through south Florida when the kids started asking for a pit stop.  I started punching buttons on the GPS, but Poppy simply said "there's an Exxon station 12.6 miles down the road at exit XX.  We stopped there in 1996 on our way to see . . . ."  Throughout the trip he would spout out distances, exit numbers, names of gas stations, restaurants, and probably even the exact coordinates of local alligator farms.  He was never wrong.  Amazing.  Poppy would have found Ward in no time had he been with us on Friday morning.

Mt. Rogers was a memorable experience, and one that makes us remember to be thankful that Ward is safe and sound.

Thursday, March 10, 2011

Section 2 Complete!

Ward called from Damascus, VA last night, where he was enjoying a pizza and celebrating the completion of the second section of the AT.  He reached Damascus a couple of days earlier than I expected, as they covered extra miles the last few days (mileage of 23.4, 23.3, and 26.1 the last three days).  There was lots of rain yesterday, and snow is forecast for today/tonight.

He previously indicated he and (presumably) Matt would take a zero in Damascus, but his plan has now changed.  I suspect this is because he took an unplanned zero last Sunday while waiting out a storm.  He'll hike today, then take a partial slackpack on Friday.  Today and tomorrow he will be in the Mt. Rogers area, where we hiked in preparation for his Philmont, NM trip when he was age 14 (scouts).  He'll spend Friday and Saturday nights in nearby Abingdon, VA and take a zero on Saturday.

A few stats:

Days on Trail/Hiking: 36 Total - 5 Zeros = 31 Hiking Days
Total Mileage - 464.4
Average Mileage per Day - 12.9 Including Zeros, 15.0 Excluding Zeros
Elevations - High = 6,625 ft, Low = 1,326.
Difficulty - NC = 3-6, TN = 5-6  (Scale:  1 = Flat, 5 = Strenuous Ups/Downs, and 10 = Hands Needed/Precarious Footing)

The AT covers 533.3 miles in Virginia, covering the most miles here of the 14 states through which it winds.  Virginia is broken into four sections, with the upcoming section extending 163.3 miles through Southwest Virginia and ending at the New River near Pearisburg, VA.  Virginia includes some of the most scenic parts of the AT, but hikers often get the "Virginia blues" because the trail is so long in this state (hikers need the mental boost of completing sections and moving from one state to another).  The Virginia trail sections range from 2 - 6 in difficulty.

Sunday, March 6, 2011

People Who Impact Others

Along the trail there are many people who go out of their way to do something special for hikers.  Ward relayed a story about a local hiking club that sets up a military-style tent along the trail beginning January 1 each year, offering food and a rest stop for passing thru-hikers through peak season.  Matt talked about a local restaurant that gave him complimentary food and drinks when they found out he was a thru-hiker.  Last week, a hotel in Johnson City, TN offered to discount my room rate when they found out Ward was hiking the AT.

Even before his trek began, Ward was the beneficiary of another person's kindness.  Brad Ivey, who hiked the trail in 1999, spent many hours with Ward, providing valuable guidance about the trail, equipment, maps, and most important, safety.  Brad continues to send notes of support and encouragement, which are appreciated by Beth and me as much as they are by Ward.  Brad is also a "trail angel" - a person who takes time to do something special for AT hikers he does not know, like leave a cooler full of drinks along the trail on a hot weekend.

What is interesting to me is that Brad's impact on Ward did not begin this year.  It started 10 or 11 years ago when Brad shared his AT experience with Ward's Boy Scout Troop.  The image of a room full of young scouts on the edges of their seats and watching and listening as Brad projected slide-show images, is etched in my mind.  Brad used a carousel setup - the ones that require actual slides made from film-generated photos, and which make a loud "click-clank" sound as the pictures change.  I was on the edge of my seat as well that night, for I had no idea what a trek of the entire AT entailed before then.  I was immediately impressed with Brad, and my admiration has only grown since then.

There is no way to know that any single event caused Ward to take on such a challenge, but I do believe that night had a significant, positive impact.  In my mind, it planted a seed that helped Ward to begin thinking in terms of dreams, possibilities, and big challenges.  I hope the kindness of Brad and people like him is contagious, as we need more people like him in this world.

Thank you, Brad.

Tuesday, March 1, 2011

Time for Some R&R

I met Ward early today at Sam's Gap.  He changed out of his soaked socks and boots and into some tennis shoes that mom packed for me to bring to him.  His feet have grown at least a half-size, which is normal for a long trek.  His boots are also showing signs of wear and tear.  I'm not sure if this is normal for having hiked 325+ miles.

Ward slackpacked to Spivey's Gap while I scouted for a place to stay.  I guess the tennis shoes felt pretty good.  He started out jogging the trail as I drove away.  He feels good and he has lots of energy, but I think he needs to save himself for the long journey ahead.

We planned to stay in Erwin, TN but the food/resupply/lodging options were . . . let's just say . . . limited, at least compared to Johnson City just down the road.  I also dried his gear while he hiked.  Matt took a zero in Hot Springs, so they will likely catch up in 2 or 3 days.

We have had a nice afternoon.  He's updating me on stories, showing me photos, and still talking about Gatlinburg (his initial description was "rathole").  He was intrigued by the "old tyme" photo shops, and the rock store that had a location on both sides of the street.  He stayed at the Grand Prix hotel, which is owned and operated by a nice couple, but which has nothing to do with with Monaco.  Good memories.  The local brew-pub was also interesting - filled with race fans.  He was happy to leave Gatlinburg.  I wish we had pictures.

He has stayed in a number of hostels and really likes them.  Each one seems to be owned/staffed by different types of people.  He really liked one near Hot Springs, a large Victorian-style home, owned by an ordained minister who hiked the trail in the 1970s.  The fellow was well-read and Ward really enjoyed him.  He also met another Navy Seal at one of the hostels - pretty intense fellow in his 60s.  Still in very good shape.  It sounds like there are a lot of former military people associated with the hostels or who live near the trail.

Last night he met an interesting fellow in a shelter.  The man is an attorney from Maine who retired at a young age.  He has hiked the trail twice, and was on a section hike when they met.  He spends time in the Caribbean on his sailboat, but soon plans to teach English at a local college.  Ward received a lot of great advice from the man and really enjoyed his company.  Too bad they were heading in different directions, as their paths are unlikely to cross again. 

We activated his new Spot.  Peace of mind - again.  Ward admitted he missed the Spot, especially on nights when he was alone in a shelter.  The ability to hit an SOS button for help is reassuring, even if it might take hours for help to arrive.   He also purchased an iPod Shuffle (the smallest, cheapest, most portable one) today.  He's not bored, but the hikes are getting longer (lots of 18 mile days) and he would like some entertainment.

We plan to wash his clothes and re-supply tomorrow.  He may purchase some trail shoes tomorrow, and ditch the boots.  A lot of hikers do this after they become comfortable on the trail.  He's also starting to shed (as in mail home) some items he no longer needs, including a coat (!! after purchasing one early-on) and some rain pants that he says they are useless when hiking.

This is fun.  Tonight we're going to dinner.  He needs 5,000 - 6,000 calories a day, and he already informed me he needs to go to Chic-fil-a AFTER dinner to pick up a snack for later.  I'm sure he's lost weight, but he looks good.  We don't eat much beef at home, and he gets none on the trail, so I'm sure he'll take advantage of the opportunity tonight.

Over and out for now.  I'll post pictures soon.

Saturday, February 26, 2011

At a Hostel in Hot Springs

Finally touched base with Ward via text messages.  The Spot is lost, but we will have another one in place next week.

Ward made it to Hot Springs on Friday as planned.  He stayed in a hostel last night, but only had the ability to send/receive text messages - no phone or internet.  He commented that he may pick up a phone signal when he's in town, which tells me the hostel may be located outside town.  I haven't heard from him as of the time of this writing, so he either forgot to call or did not get a signal.  Regardless, we know he's OK.

He and Matt will split up today, as Matt plans to take a zero.  They often hike separately during the day and meet at a shelter at night.  They probably need time apart, but they probably like knowing someone else is around, as there aren't many hikers on the AT this time of year.  That's especially true for them, as they left Springer Mountain earlier than most.

Ward is pushing on so he can meet me in Erwin, TN next week.  We have a pre-set meeting location and time, when I will pick up his backpack.  This will allow him to "slackpack" from that point to Erwin, where I'll pick him up later in the day.  Slackpacking means to hike without a pack - a savings of about 40-45 lbs depending on his food and water stock.  Ward plans to take a zero in Erwin, where he'll wash clothes, re-supply, and rest.  I can't wait to see him.  We're lucky that I have some flexibility over the next month.

Thursday, February 24, 2011

A Long Wait

It's Thursday and our last voice/text contact with Ward was last Monday.  The Spot began broadcasting on Tuesday morning, marking the path we expected along the trail.  The broadcasts stopped Tuesday pm at a point near Ward's planned destination.  Dead batteries - we assume.   I asked Ward to replace the batteries on two previous occasions, but he insisted they were OK (not sure how he would know - they were near the end of their life spans according to my estimates).  We also talked about how to conserve power on the spot by shifting from automatic broadcasts to manual.  Probably not a big deal for Ward, but it is for us.

We expected him to be near a hostel around I-40 by last night, and assumed he would be able to call us from there, either from his mobile phone or via calling card.  That did not happen, perhaps for any number of reasons:  1) his phone battery could be dead, 2) there may not be a cell signal, 3) he may be staying in a shelter instead of a hostel, meaning no land lines, 4) no land line access in the hostel, or 5) no urgency to call.  We'll make sure everything is working properly when he reaches Hot Springs.

We knew there would be times like this.  I'm sure he's OK, but I still want to hear from him.

Monday, February 21, 2011

Snow in the Smokies

I talked to Ward late yesterday.  Very difficult trek since Franklin, especially over Clingman's Dome where they encountered deep snow drifts.  The terrain wasn't terribly difficult, but the snow was soft and there were constant drop-offs, which caused them to lose footing.  I could tell from the Spot markings that they were moving slowly.  Hikers and campers are required to stay in shelters throughout the Smokies, so they previously mailed their tents forward to Hot Springs to eliminate unnecessary weight.

Ward called when he reached Newfound Gap/US441, where they were working on a hitch into Gatlinburg, TN for the night.  They will most likely take a zero, then resume Tuesday so they can make Hot Springs, NC and pick up tent.


We haven't talked much or at length, as phone reception and phone recharge options are limited throughout the Smokies.  I hope to hear more from Gatlinburg later today.

Friday, February 18, 2011

Section 1 Complete!

We have not had voice or text contact with Ward in several days.  We know from his Spot signals that he reached Fontana Dam, NC yesterday, completing the first of 11 trail sections.  The trek from Springer Mountain, GA to Fontana is difficult, rating mostly "6" on the Conservancy's 10-point scale described below.

1=Flat
5=Strenuous ups and downs, only occasional flat sections
10=Use of hands required, footing precarious — not recommended for those with fear of heights and not in good physical condition.

 A few other facts about Ward's accomplishment:
  • Miles Hiked to Date - 164.4
  • Days on Trail Since Springer Mountain, GA - 15 total (including 2 zeros), 13 hiking days.
  • Average Daily Miles - 11.0 Total, 12.6 excluding zero days.
  • Section Elevation Range - 1,725 ft low, 5,498 ft high.
  • Average Dropout Rate by Fontana - 29%.
The second section generally follows the border of NC and TN, ending north of the TN border in Damascus, VA. Ward will likely enter the Great Smoky Mountains National Park today, where he will spend approximately 5 days at high elevation.

End 

Monday, February 14, 2011

Been to Franklin

Beth, George and I met Ward last Saturday in Franklin, NC.  He and Matt arrived at our pickup point a couple of hours early and hitch-hiked into town with a "nice, older couple" who gave them a tour of the town.  We met at a very interesting outfitter store in the middle of downtown.  Matt was there, but he had arranged other accommodations.

I had not heard of Franklin before our trip.  It's a unique town.  On Saturday we had dinner at Caffe REL, "REL" being the initials of the chef-owner.  The restaurant was attached to a "Hot Spot" - a convenience store, with which it shared bathrooms, which made it all the more interesting.  REL clearly catered to local clientele with a few out-of-towners like us sprinkled in.  No wine list (only wines by the glass, but decent).  No credit cards (cash or check only, even from out-of towners).  No pretense.  Extensive menu.  Lots of fun.  We fed Ward a heavy meal at Taco Bell, then again at REL a few hours later.  He's already losing weight from his trim body, despite the fact he's consuming lots of calories.  He can eat anything in sight.

We found Matt walking down the road on Sunday.  He found his own entertainment on Saturday night - no need for the Russells.  We took him to an outfitter on the edge of town (the downtown store was closed), where he and Ward restocked gear and supplies.  They cannot carry a lot of food at one time, so they are constantly restocking.  (Hikers know there is a trade-off between weight and comfort.  For a thru-hiker, every ounce is meaningful, and they will shed or defer every ounce possible).  We also picked Matt up on Monday morning to take he and Ward to back to the AT.  Matt found more entertainment on Sunday night - the local hangout found out he was a thru-hiker and gave him complimentary food and drinks all night.  Matt is a character.  He's traveled most of the world and is quite conversant about other cultures.  He will move from mechanic to flight engineer for a refueling plane (the big ones) when he re-enters the Air Force this fall.

Ward filled us in on some of his stories.  Helen was a bust, as only three businesses seemed to be open - The Helendorf Inn, the liquor store, and Wendy's (which they found with directions from the man in the liquor store).  It sounds as if they just slept in, washed clothes, then ate at Wendy's, before leaving early the next day.  They could not find adequate supplies in Helen, and therefore took a side-trip into Hiawassee the next day in the middle of their hike.

Ward also told us more about his previous 2-day layover at the Neel's Gap hostel.  This is a place where many hikers send gear they do not need home, and where they buy other gear they think they need.  The place is manned by a couple of guys who seem to have little need for contact with the outside world.  They spent a zero day here on Super Bowl Sunday.  One of the guys there was named Lumpy (everyone eventually gets a trail name).  Lumpy owns the hostel.  The other is a former Navy Seal.  Lumpy and Navy Seal convinced the owner of the "luxury" cabins located behind the hostel to let the group watch the Super Bowl in one of the vacant cabins, as there were no other televisions in the vicinity.  Lumpy then remembered they could not buy beer in Georgia on Sunday.  He quickly pulled everyone together, hopped into the "company car", a Suburu Outback station wagon, and made way to North Carolina along back roads.  He tried his best to make Ward and Matt sick, but to no avail.  Ward thought a lot of these folks, as they treated him well.  Good memories.

We left Ward at the AT around 10:25 Monday morning.  He is well-fed, well-stocked, clean, has clean clothes, and is in good spirits.  The weather has been very difficult so far, but he thinks he is better prepared now.  The next week also looks very good for the hike to Fontana Dam and then through the Smokies.  He has set his Spot device to send automatic signals, which means there will be more marks on the map.  We'll see how long his batteries last using this method.

Tuesday, February 8, 2011

Go to Helen

Ward and Matt stayed at Low Gap last night, hiked 9.5 miles to GA 75 this morning, and then hitch-hiked into Helen, GA.  I asked about the hitch-hiking, and Ward said a nice older couple in a Lexus gave them a ride.  Interesting.  Anyone who is more than a few years older is classified as "nice, older, or both".

Ward bought an extra coat for night-time sleeping, which helped a lot, but it's still cold.  At least he'll get his old sleeping bag soon, which will help more.  They were able to get a room at the Helendorf Inn for $27 - total - $13.50 each.  Today's plan is to wash clothes, eat well, and push reasonably hard for several days.

I recall visiting Helen on a day trip when Beth and I lived in Atlanta.  We had Reubens and Hacker-Pschorr beer in a small outdoor restaurant on main street (I can't believe I remember the brand.  A Google search helped me with the spelling).  Helen has been described by some as Cherokee, NC with a German facade.  Years ago someone had the vision to market Helen as the place for Oktoberfest in North Georgia, and according to books, the population can swell from 300 to more than 30,000 during the season.  I know of two cold hikers who are likely to make the best of their time in Helen.  I also know of some parents who are happy for a place called Helen.

Sunday, February 6, 2011

The First Zero

Ward called home.  He hiked 16+ miles yesterday to a hostel at Neel's Gap.  The terrain was rugged, and they crossed Blood Mountain, the highest peak in the Georgia section of the AT (approx. 4500 ft.).  Ward was hiking about 20 minutes ahead of Matt and passed an older couple along a side trail.  Matt came along later and told Ward the gentleman suffered a heart attack, evidently after Ward passed him.   As Ward and Matt backtracked to the main trail they met EMTs, and discovered the man passed away.  How sad for the family.

Today is a zero day, meaning he will stay at the hostel and will not hike, as another ice storm rolled in last night or early this morning.  When we spoke after noon, the sun was beginning to shine for the first time on his trip.  He and some others, including two section hikers he met from Georgia, have secured transportation to a nearby town where they plan to have lunch.  Lunch may be tough for Ward, as it is highly unlikely they have Chick-fil-a or Sir Pizza in this town.

It has been cold.  Ward thinks he made a mistake in purchasing an ultra-light sleeping bag even though it is rated to "0" degrees.  He has another, warmer bag at home, which we will either ship or deliver to him the next time we're together.  That may be next weekend.  (Yes, we're nervous parents).  Regardless, he says he is OK for the time being.

Some southbound hikers are telling him the snow is deep in the upper elevations moving north.  They recommend show shoes.  What a surprise!  I've never heard of anyone wearing show shoes in NC.  The thought of Ward wearing show shoes reminds me of Yukon Cornelius, the gold prospector in the Rudolph the Red-Nosed Reindeer cartoon.

Ward plans to increase the pace in the coming days.  He hiked about 8 miles each of the first two days, which put him at his destination around 12 or 1 PM, and left him with nothing else to do.  He was only slightly fatigued on the 16 mile day, and liked the fact that much of his day was not wasted.  Both he and Matt want to push through the trip quickly.  I keep telling him to focus on the journey, and not just the destination, but what do I know.  I'm just sitting in a warm, cozy home thinking about tonight's Super Bowl.

Friday, February 4, 2011

It's Cold

Ward and Matt made Gooch Gap shelter, their second destination point today.  He has traveled 16.5 miles to date, exactly as planned, and he will pick up the pace over the next several days.

The weather conditions are poor - snow and ice, and overcast such that the Spot signal will not reach the satellite.  Ward was able to send a phone text message to Beth, which was thoughtful.  It was cold last night and needs a additional coat for to wear while sleeping - my guess is a fleece vest.  He should be able to purchase one in a couple of days.  Also, it appears he will be able to find lodging tomorrow night, so my hope is that he does not suffer for long.  There are some things parents should not be told.  I'm glad he's starting with Matt.

The Start

Ward departed from the southern terminus of the AT on February 3, 2011 at 10:06 am.  Beth and I traveled to Georgia with him the day before his departure, spending the night at the Amicalola Lodge.  The lodge was almost empty, as it is currently off-season, but it worked out very well for us. 

There are three primary access points to the trail.  We checked in at the registration desk, and found that Ward is the 11th hiker to register at Amicalola this year - some register elsewhere or not at all.  After that we drove 20-25 minutes to a Forest Service access road.  The access road crosses the AT after 6.5 miles, where there is also a parking area.  We then hiked 0.9 miles to the end of the trail, where we took lots of pictures.  The scenery is beautiful, and I'm sure just a precursor to many more wonderful views that Ward will have an opportunity to enjoy along the way. 

As we began our descent, backtracking to our parked car, we ran across another hiker who was beginning his AT trek.  What a relief for us and for the other hiker (Matt)!   I took pictures of Matt using his camera, and then hiked down the trail with him.  He seems like a very nice person and a good companion for Ward.  Matt is from Philadelphia and recently left active duty from the Air Force.  He will be in the reserves until next fall, at which time he will begin a different active duty position.  Another added benefit - Matt attended Le Cordon Blue culinary school when he was younger (he is now age 30), so he may be able to teach Ward a few things about food (or, at least food hygiene) during the trip.  Before we left, Matt asked that I call his mother to let her know of his safe departure.  His mom was as pleased to make contact with us as we were of her, and very much appreciated the call.  We agreed to keep one another posted as necessary.  A good sign!

It was very tough saying good-bye to Ward.  We're very proud of him for setting personal goals and for pursuing dreams at the young age of 20, but we will remain nervous and concerned parents throughout his journey.  The good news is that Ward is a good planner who does not take unnecessary risks.  He also carries a Spot 2 GPS device that beams his coordinates and allows him to send "OK" messages to us (or an "SOS" to a call center).  We were relieved and comforted to receive our first OK message from him at 1:53 pm on the day of his departure, indicating his arrival at his first shelter destination.  We're also glad to hear he has shelter, as rain was expected that night.

End