Tuesday, March 29, 2011

Backtracking

I was surprised when Ward called Monday morning from Daleville, VA.  He was in Daleville when we spoke last Friday, so we assumed he was well on his way to Buena Vista, VA.  The Spot GPS also showed him hiking toward Buchanan on Friday, so everything seemed to be going according to plan.  However, because of the weather, there were no Spot markings after late Friday, so we had no way of knowing an exact position.

It turns out everything is OK.  He and Matt, and their new friend "Smokestack" stayed in a hostel near Buchanan on Saturday night.  On Sunday they decided to take a zero to wait out the snow storm.  Unfortunately, the hostel did not have room for them on Sunday night, so they hitchhiked back to Daleville to find a place to stay.  They resumed their hike Monday morning from the Buchanan area, so all is well.

Smokestack is the new friend's trail name, presumably assigned because he is a chain smoker.  Smokestack is 30 to 35 years old and from New Jersey.  Ward doesn't know Smokestack's real name but he likes having him hike with them - keeps things interesting.  Ward and Matt do not have trail names to our knowledge, and it doesn't sound as if Ward will seek one for himself (not surprising at all).  I am hopeful that someone else will assign a name to him very soon, as it seems to add to the overall experience.

Ward also mentioned that he ran into the fellow from Connecticut that Beth and I met when we were in Damascus, VA.  They met during the backtrack to Daleville, which implies the fellow is about a day behind Ward.  Ward and Matt left Springer Mountain earlier than most thru-hikers, and as a result they haven't met as many people as they otherwise would have met.  I hope Mr. Connecticut catches up with them soon.  It's a long way to Katahdin and they need new personalities around to keep things interesting.

Friday, March 25, 2011

Brief Update from Roanoke, VA Area

Beth and Ward spoke briefly yesterday.  He and Matt are now hiking with another person - a fellow in his 30s who hiked most of the AT last year, but who had to skip a few sections.  He's making up for those sections now.  We do not know how long they'll be together, but it sounds like a good thing for now, and surely makes things more interesting.

Ward passed the 700-mile mark yesterday, and by the end of the day he will be more than a third of the way through the trek.  He's logging a lot of miles each day - an average of 21 miles per day over the past two weeks, excluding zeros. 

We shipped another sleeping bag to him, which he will pick up today and a local outfitter's drop point.  His current bag is rated to 0 degrees, and it's simply too warm now that we're in springtime.  He wanted my bag, rated to 20 degrees, which has the added benefit of being lighter.  On a side note, the manufacturer of his first bag (changed out in the first two weeks) accepted a return and gave Ward credit for future purchases.  REI gave partial credit for his cracked boots.  In both cases I think the sellers realized they were dealing with a thru-hiker who was fair and reasonable, and not someone trying to take advantage of the situation.

I expect Ward to take a zero in the next couple of days.  We're planning around a possible visit next weekend, to include Ward's brother George, his uncle Brooks Bossong, and our friend Todd Klass.  This could get interesting. 

End

Sunday, March 20, 2011

Section 3 Complete!

Ward called from Pearisburg, VA near the West Virginia border.  He completed the Southwest VA Section (3rd of 11 AT sections) yesterday, and plans to take a zero today - Sunday.  Matt was picked up by a friend late Friday and took a zero on Saturday.  They will catch up with one another and resume hiking together on Monday.  It sounds like things are going well, especially with the new pack and lightweight hiking shoes.  The terrain is surprisingly rocky.  They logged 22-24 miles miles for several days over the past week, but cut one day short due to rain, and then made way to nearby Atkins, VA.

A few facts:

Cumulative miles since Springer - 627.7
Total days:  46 - 6 zero days = 41 hiking days
Average daily mileage:  13.6 including zero days, 15.7 excluding zero days

Click here for more information about the Virginia sections of the AT.

Monday, March 14, 2011

Abingdon

Beth, Poppy, and I spent the past weekend with Ward in Abingdon, VA.  At one time we discussed staying in Damascus, but Ward let us know ahead of time that we would probably want to stay elsewhere.  Damascus is a very small town geared for hikers.  Wad knows we are more interested in food and a decent hotel, and my guess is Ward wanted the same.

Abingdon is nice town at its core (downtown), but it's becoming more box-store/commercial around the edges.  The downtown area has the look and feel of an earlier time  We had dinner at The Tavern on Saturday night.  The Tavern is housed in a building built in 1779, and has a nice, old-feel atmosphere with good food served without pretense.  The very beautiful Martha Washington Inn is located downtown, as is the Barter Theatre.  The Barter was built during the Depression and is so-named because people with no money could barter goods to attend productions there.  As the designated State Theatre of Virginia, the Barter offers an unusually wide variety of productions one would not expect from a small town in Southwest Virginia.  I like towns like Abingdon.

We had dinner in a non-descript italian restaurant on Friday night.  I now understand why they laughed when i called and asked if reservations were needed.  The most memorable part of the evening was the nice lady that Beth and I noticed flirting with Poppy as we were leaving.  I can't remember what she looked like other than the fact that she had a 4 1/2-foot long pony tail.

I wish I could remember all the stories Ward tells.  He stayed in Kincora hostel near Hampton, TN last week where he enjoyed hearing stories and trail history from the owner, Bob Peoples.  Mr. Peoples is something of a legend, and even hiked with Earl Shaffer, the first person to thru-hike the AT.  He also organizes project groups every year to build bridges, paths, shelters, or anything important to the trail.  H sounds like a really neat person.  Ward has also crossed paths with a number of college students on spring break.  I never thought of going to the mountains for spring break.  Driving to Florida was hard enough for me back then.

We back-tracked to Johnson City, TN on Saturday to revisit Mahoney's, an outfitter that Ward and I found on an earlier trip.  Poppy was very generous and set Ward up with new hiking shoes (to replace the prematurely worn out boots) and a new pack.  Poppy bought a book of maps for himself, which I'm sure he will memorize over the next few days.  The old pack has worked well for the past five years, but it's a bit bulky for a lightweight trek on the AT.  I received a text from Ward tonight, and he says both are working out great.

We dropped Ward off at Beech Mountain road on Sunday morning, in the middle of nowhere.  The snow from Thursday/Friday's storm melted away and the view was completely different than the one from two days earlier.  That eerie, foreboding, and desolate feel was gone.  Ward planned to slackpack 5-6 miles and then meet us at the place where we had planned to meet the previous Friday.  Beth and I returned to Damascus to pick up a Subway tuna-on-white-with-provolone-lettuce-and-banana-pepper sandwich for Ward (which I now understand to be his is favorite) and then gas the car.

At the gas station we spotted a young man in his early 20s who looked (yes, looked) like a thru-hiker.  Beth and I also noticed something about him that gave the appearance of someone from a nice family, even in hiker gear and a beard.  We ran into him again in a coffee shop and asked if he was hiking.  He is.  It turns out he left Springer Mountain on February 14th, 11 days after Ward and Matt.  He is from Connecticut and is pushing hard to finish by mid-June so he can vacation with his family and attend a couple of weddings.  His girlfriend is planning to meet him briefly in a couple of weeks, so he's trying to log miles by himself while he can.  Unfortunately, the grueling pace has taken a toll on him.  He had severe shin splints and needs at least two days of rest before leaving again.  He's at least three days behind Ward and Matt.  I hope they meet up, as he seems like a nice person.

We left Damascus to meet up with Ward.  He and Matt had planned to meet up at a shelter that night.  They ended up finding each other within minutes of when Ward was dropped off at Beech Mountain road.  Too bad for Matt.  I wish we could have carried his pack for him.  He could have used the break.

We left Ward at a parking lot near Mt. Rogers.  There were lots of college students around.  One of them had a puppy - a cute Husky that was curious about everything.  While we were talking the Husky decided to pee on Matt's pack.  Instinct.  The Husky was simply marking his spot over one previously left by a cat in Hot Springs.  Matt is an official animal target.  Let's hope the bears, bobcats, raccoons, and other creatures don't find out.

Sunday, March 13, 2011

Change of Plans

Beth and I left to meet Ward at a pre-arranged pickup point in the Mt. Rogers, VA area last Friday.  We planned to pick up Ward and then let him slackpack 16 miles to another pickup point.  After that we would drive with Ward to nearby Abingdon, VA for a fun weekend.  Poppy (Beth's father and Ward's grandfather) planned to drive up separately and meet us there.

We knew from reports that the weather conditions were poor around the Mt. Rogers area where Ward was hiking.  Still, we assumed that everything was on go.  About 30 minutes before pickup, I received a text message asking that we meet at another point.  Ward could not go any further.  No problem.  We would plug the new location into our phones, or we would follow the map on the GPS.  Wrong.  Because the area was so remote would could not get a cell signal, and the road point where Ward wanted to meet did not show up on the GPS.

The conditions on the mountain were so poor, and we were so concerned about Ward's cryptic text message, that I agreed to do something I rarely do:  we stopped to ask directions at a local convenience store.  The owner was a nice fellow, new to the business, but unfamiliar with the area.  He had gas pumps but no gas (been waiting on a contract for four months).  He tried his best to find the meeting spot, and even called friends.  He eventually sent us on a long trek on a mountain road with poor conditions.  By now we were very concerned, as we were at least 45 minutes late for the planned pickup.  Ward was by himself.  He had to be cold, and we didn't know what else might have happened, since he spent the previous night alone in a remote location (Matt decided to take a zero in nearby Damascus the previous day).

We turned onto a "main" road and drove a few miles, looking for someone who might be able to help.  We happened upon "Beech Mountain Rd" sign - not the one in North Carolina, but the one we wanted.  We came upon it so quickly I had to swerve to make the turn.  Elation, but then uncertainty.  Beech Mountain road was a gravel road in the middle of nowhere, covered in snow.  We drove about 1/4 mile where the road converged with another gravel road.  More confusion.  Were we in the right place and was this still Beech Mountain road?  With nothing to lose, we decided to continue on down the road.  There was an occasional home along the way, usually stuck deep in the woods off the road.  There were no other car tracks in the snow, it was windy, and snowing.  We were anxious, concerned, and about to turn around  for help, when we finally spotted tire tracks leaving a driveway and heading in our the same direction as us.  We decided to stay the course.

After about 3/4 mile the road began to wind in hairpin-like turns.  As usual, Beth asked "do you know what you're doing"?  As we rounded one of the turns I spotted a gray-suited figure in the distance.  The height, the posture, and everything else about the figure was a dead giveaway - it was Ward.  I laughed and Beth asked "what, what!"  Then she saw the figure and we knew all was well.

He had been waiting about 40 minutes, and in the meantime hiked to the top of a nearby hill, where he was able to call Poppy (but not us since we could not receive calls).  He had hiked about 1 1/2 to 2 miles, often crawling below ice-covered, low-hanging Rhododendron to reach the revised pickup point.  We talked and continued down Beech Mountain road and into Damascus where we came across Matt, hiking along the Virginia Creeper trail, heading out of town to resume his journey.  We stopped and Ward explained the conditions to Matt, advising him to wait it out for the day.  Matt seemed relieved, and turned around to hike back into Damascus (funny how hikers will not accept rides for short distances).  He and Ward worked out a plan to meet up on Sunday.

Technology is a wonderful thing, but it's funny how lost and insecure we can become when it doesn't work.  To me this just shows just how vulnerable and and how dependent we have become in recent years.  Of course, Poppy never has this problem, as he doesn't rely on technology.  His computer, his phone, and his GPS rarely ever work properly, so he doesn't trust them.   But Poppy is like "Rain Man" when it comes to maps and distances.  A couple of years ago we were driving through south Florida when the kids started asking for a pit stop.  I started punching buttons on the GPS, but Poppy simply said "there's an Exxon station 12.6 miles down the road at exit XX.  We stopped there in 1996 on our way to see . . . ."  Throughout the trip he would spout out distances, exit numbers, names of gas stations, restaurants, and probably even the exact coordinates of local alligator farms.  He was never wrong.  Amazing.  Poppy would have found Ward in no time had he been with us on Friday morning.

Mt. Rogers was a memorable experience, and one that makes us remember to be thankful that Ward is safe and sound.

Thursday, March 10, 2011

Section 2 Complete!

Ward called from Damascus, VA last night, where he was enjoying a pizza and celebrating the completion of the second section of the AT.  He reached Damascus a couple of days earlier than I expected, as they covered extra miles the last few days (mileage of 23.4, 23.3, and 26.1 the last three days).  There was lots of rain yesterday, and snow is forecast for today/tonight.

He previously indicated he and (presumably) Matt would take a zero in Damascus, but his plan has now changed.  I suspect this is because he took an unplanned zero last Sunday while waiting out a storm.  He'll hike today, then take a partial slackpack on Friday.  Today and tomorrow he will be in the Mt. Rogers area, where we hiked in preparation for his Philmont, NM trip when he was age 14 (scouts).  He'll spend Friday and Saturday nights in nearby Abingdon, VA and take a zero on Saturday.

A few stats:

Days on Trail/Hiking: 36 Total - 5 Zeros = 31 Hiking Days
Total Mileage - 464.4
Average Mileage per Day - 12.9 Including Zeros, 15.0 Excluding Zeros
Elevations - High = 6,625 ft, Low = 1,326.
Difficulty - NC = 3-6, TN = 5-6  (Scale:  1 = Flat, 5 = Strenuous Ups/Downs, and 10 = Hands Needed/Precarious Footing)

The AT covers 533.3 miles in Virginia, covering the most miles here of the 14 states through which it winds.  Virginia is broken into four sections, with the upcoming section extending 163.3 miles through Southwest Virginia and ending at the New River near Pearisburg, VA.  Virginia includes some of the most scenic parts of the AT, but hikers often get the "Virginia blues" because the trail is so long in this state (hikers need the mental boost of completing sections and moving from one state to another).  The Virginia trail sections range from 2 - 6 in difficulty.

Sunday, March 6, 2011

People Who Impact Others

Along the trail there are many people who go out of their way to do something special for hikers.  Ward relayed a story about a local hiking club that sets up a military-style tent along the trail beginning January 1 each year, offering food and a rest stop for passing thru-hikers through peak season.  Matt talked about a local restaurant that gave him complimentary food and drinks when they found out he was a thru-hiker.  Last week, a hotel in Johnson City, TN offered to discount my room rate when they found out Ward was hiking the AT.

Even before his trek began, Ward was the beneficiary of another person's kindness.  Brad Ivey, who hiked the trail in 1999, spent many hours with Ward, providing valuable guidance about the trail, equipment, maps, and most important, safety.  Brad continues to send notes of support and encouragement, which are appreciated by Beth and me as much as they are by Ward.  Brad is also a "trail angel" - a person who takes time to do something special for AT hikers he does not know, like leave a cooler full of drinks along the trail on a hot weekend.

What is interesting to me is that Brad's impact on Ward did not begin this year.  It started 10 or 11 years ago when Brad shared his AT experience with Ward's Boy Scout Troop.  The image of a room full of young scouts on the edges of their seats and watching and listening as Brad projected slide-show images, is etched in my mind.  Brad used a carousel setup - the ones that require actual slides made from film-generated photos, and which make a loud "click-clank" sound as the pictures change.  I was on the edge of my seat as well that night, for I had no idea what a trek of the entire AT entailed before then.  I was immediately impressed with Brad, and my admiration has only grown since then.

There is no way to know that any single event caused Ward to take on such a challenge, but I do believe that night had a significant, positive impact.  In my mind, it planted a seed that helped Ward to begin thinking in terms of dreams, possibilities, and big challenges.  I hope the kindness of Brad and people like him is contagious, as we need more people like him in this world.

Thank you, Brad.

Tuesday, March 1, 2011

Time for Some R&R

I met Ward early today at Sam's Gap.  He changed out of his soaked socks and boots and into some tennis shoes that mom packed for me to bring to him.  His feet have grown at least a half-size, which is normal for a long trek.  His boots are also showing signs of wear and tear.  I'm not sure if this is normal for having hiked 325+ miles.

Ward slackpacked to Spivey's Gap while I scouted for a place to stay.  I guess the tennis shoes felt pretty good.  He started out jogging the trail as I drove away.  He feels good and he has lots of energy, but I think he needs to save himself for the long journey ahead.

We planned to stay in Erwin, TN but the food/resupply/lodging options were . . . let's just say . . . limited, at least compared to Johnson City just down the road.  I also dried his gear while he hiked.  Matt took a zero in Hot Springs, so they will likely catch up in 2 or 3 days.

We have had a nice afternoon.  He's updating me on stories, showing me photos, and still talking about Gatlinburg (his initial description was "rathole").  He was intrigued by the "old tyme" photo shops, and the rock store that had a location on both sides of the street.  He stayed at the Grand Prix hotel, which is owned and operated by a nice couple, but which has nothing to do with with Monaco.  Good memories.  The local brew-pub was also interesting - filled with race fans.  He was happy to leave Gatlinburg.  I wish we had pictures.

He has stayed in a number of hostels and really likes them.  Each one seems to be owned/staffed by different types of people.  He really liked one near Hot Springs, a large Victorian-style home, owned by an ordained minister who hiked the trail in the 1970s.  The fellow was well-read and Ward really enjoyed him.  He also met another Navy Seal at one of the hostels - pretty intense fellow in his 60s.  Still in very good shape.  It sounds like there are a lot of former military people associated with the hostels or who live near the trail.

Last night he met an interesting fellow in a shelter.  The man is an attorney from Maine who retired at a young age.  He has hiked the trail twice, and was on a section hike when they met.  He spends time in the Caribbean on his sailboat, but soon plans to teach English at a local college.  Ward received a lot of great advice from the man and really enjoyed his company.  Too bad they were heading in different directions, as their paths are unlikely to cross again. 

We activated his new Spot.  Peace of mind - again.  Ward admitted he missed the Spot, especially on nights when he was alone in a shelter.  The ability to hit an SOS button for help is reassuring, even if it might take hours for help to arrive.   He also purchased an iPod Shuffle (the smallest, cheapest, most portable one) today.  He's not bored, but the hikes are getting longer (lots of 18 mile days) and he would like some entertainment.

We plan to wash his clothes and re-supply tomorrow.  He may purchase some trail shoes tomorrow, and ditch the boots.  A lot of hikers do this after they become comfortable on the trail.  He's also starting to shed (as in mail home) some items he no longer needs, including a coat (!! after purchasing one early-on) and some rain pants that he says they are useless when hiking.

This is fun.  Tonight we're going to dinner.  He needs 5,000 - 6,000 calories a day, and he already informed me he needs to go to Chic-fil-a AFTER dinner to pick up a snack for later.  I'm sure he's lost weight, but he looks good.  We don't eat much beef at home, and he gets none on the trail, so I'm sure he'll take advantage of the opportunity tonight.

Over and out for now.  I'll post pictures soon.