Saturday, February 26, 2011

At a Hostel in Hot Springs

Finally touched base with Ward via text messages.  The Spot is lost, but we will have another one in place next week.

Ward made it to Hot Springs on Friday as planned.  He stayed in a hostel last night, but only had the ability to send/receive text messages - no phone or internet.  He commented that he may pick up a phone signal when he's in town, which tells me the hostel may be located outside town.  I haven't heard from him as of the time of this writing, so he either forgot to call or did not get a signal.  Regardless, we know he's OK.

He and Matt will split up today, as Matt plans to take a zero.  They often hike separately during the day and meet at a shelter at night.  They probably need time apart, but they probably like knowing someone else is around, as there aren't many hikers on the AT this time of year.  That's especially true for them, as they left Springer Mountain earlier than most.

Ward is pushing on so he can meet me in Erwin, TN next week.  We have a pre-set meeting location and time, when I will pick up his backpack.  This will allow him to "slackpack" from that point to Erwin, where I'll pick him up later in the day.  Slackpacking means to hike without a pack - a savings of about 40-45 lbs depending on his food and water stock.  Ward plans to take a zero in Erwin, where he'll wash clothes, re-supply, and rest.  I can't wait to see him.  We're lucky that I have some flexibility over the next month.

Thursday, February 24, 2011

A Long Wait

It's Thursday and our last voice/text contact with Ward was last Monday.  The Spot began broadcasting on Tuesday morning, marking the path we expected along the trail.  The broadcasts stopped Tuesday pm at a point near Ward's planned destination.  Dead batteries - we assume.   I asked Ward to replace the batteries on two previous occasions, but he insisted they were OK (not sure how he would know - they were near the end of their life spans according to my estimates).  We also talked about how to conserve power on the spot by shifting from automatic broadcasts to manual.  Probably not a big deal for Ward, but it is for us.

We expected him to be near a hostel around I-40 by last night, and assumed he would be able to call us from there, either from his mobile phone or via calling card.  That did not happen, perhaps for any number of reasons:  1) his phone battery could be dead, 2) there may not be a cell signal, 3) he may be staying in a shelter instead of a hostel, meaning no land lines, 4) no land line access in the hostel, or 5) no urgency to call.  We'll make sure everything is working properly when he reaches Hot Springs.

We knew there would be times like this.  I'm sure he's OK, but I still want to hear from him.

Monday, February 21, 2011

Snow in the Smokies

I talked to Ward late yesterday.  Very difficult trek since Franklin, especially over Clingman's Dome where they encountered deep snow drifts.  The terrain wasn't terribly difficult, but the snow was soft and there were constant drop-offs, which caused them to lose footing.  I could tell from the Spot markings that they were moving slowly.  Hikers and campers are required to stay in shelters throughout the Smokies, so they previously mailed their tents forward to Hot Springs to eliminate unnecessary weight.

Ward called when he reached Newfound Gap/US441, where they were working on a hitch into Gatlinburg, TN for the night.  They will most likely take a zero, then resume Tuesday so they can make Hot Springs, NC and pick up tent.


We haven't talked much or at length, as phone reception and phone recharge options are limited throughout the Smokies.  I hope to hear more from Gatlinburg later today.

Friday, February 18, 2011

Section 1 Complete!

We have not had voice or text contact with Ward in several days.  We know from his Spot signals that he reached Fontana Dam, NC yesterday, completing the first of 11 trail sections.  The trek from Springer Mountain, GA to Fontana is difficult, rating mostly "6" on the Conservancy's 10-point scale described below.

1=Flat
5=Strenuous ups and downs, only occasional flat sections
10=Use of hands required, footing precarious — not recommended for those with fear of heights and not in good physical condition.

 A few other facts about Ward's accomplishment:
  • Miles Hiked to Date - 164.4
  • Days on Trail Since Springer Mountain, GA - 15 total (including 2 zeros), 13 hiking days.
  • Average Daily Miles - 11.0 Total, 12.6 excluding zero days.
  • Section Elevation Range - 1,725 ft low, 5,498 ft high.
  • Average Dropout Rate by Fontana - 29%.
The second section generally follows the border of NC and TN, ending north of the TN border in Damascus, VA. Ward will likely enter the Great Smoky Mountains National Park today, where he will spend approximately 5 days at high elevation.

End 

Monday, February 14, 2011

Been to Franklin

Beth, George and I met Ward last Saturday in Franklin, NC.  He and Matt arrived at our pickup point a couple of hours early and hitch-hiked into town with a "nice, older couple" who gave them a tour of the town.  We met at a very interesting outfitter store in the middle of downtown.  Matt was there, but he had arranged other accommodations.

I had not heard of Franklin before our trip.  It's a unique town.  On Saturday we had dinner at Caffe REL, "REL" being the initials of the chef-owner.  The restaurant was attached to a "Hot Spot" - a convenience store, with which it shared bathrooms, which made it all the more interesting.  REL clearly catered to local clientele with a few out-of-towners like us sprinkled in.  No wine list (only wines by the glass, but decent).  No credit cards (cash or check only, even from out-of towners).  No pretense.  Extensive menu.  Lots of fun.  We fed Ward a heavy meal at Taco Bell, then again at REL a few hours later.  He's already losing weight from his trim body, despite the fact he's consuming lots of calories.  He can eat anything in sight.

We found Matt walking down the road on Sunday.  He found his own entertainment on Saturday night - no need for the Russells.  We took him to an outfitter on the edge of town (the downtown store was closed), where he and Ward restocked gear and supplies.  They cannot carry a lot of food at one time, so they are constantly restocking.  (Hikers know there is a trade-off between weight and comfort.  For a thru-hiker, every ounce is meaningful, and they will shed or defer every ounce possible).  We also picked Matt up on Monday morning to take he and Ward to back to the AT.  Matt found more entertainment on Sunday night - the local hangout found out he was a thru-hiker and gave him complimentary food and drinks all night.  Matt is a character.  He's traveled most of the world and is quite conversant about other cultures.  He will move from mechanic to flight engineer for a refueling plane (the big ones) when he re-enters the Air Force this fall.

Ward filled us in on some of his stories.  Helen was a bust, as only three businesses seemed to be open - The Helendorf Inn, the liquor store, and Wendy's (which they found with directions from the man in the liquor store).  It sounds as if they just slept in, washed clothes, then ate at Wendy's, before leaving early the next day.  They could not find adequate supplies in Helen, and therefore took a side-trip into Hiawassee the next day in the middle of their hike.

Ward also told us more about his previous 2-day layover at the Neel's Gap hostel.  This is a place where many hikers send gear they do not need home, and where they buy other gear they think they need.  The place is manned by a couple of guys who seem to have little need for contact with the outside world.  They spent a zero day here on Super Bowl Sunday.  One of the guys there was named Lumpy (everyone eventually gets a trail name).  Lumpy owns the hostel.  The other is a former Navy Seal.  Lumpy and Navy Seal convinced the owner of the "luxury" cabins located behind the hostel to let the group watch the Super Bowl in one of the vacant cabins, as there were no other televisions in the vicinity.  Lumpy then remembered they could not buy beer in Georgia on Sunday.  He quickly pulled everyone together, hopped into the "company car", a Suburu Outback station wagon, and made way to North Carolina along back roads.  He tried his best to make Ward and Matt sick, but to no avail.  Ward thought a lot of these folks, as they treated him well.  Good memories.

We left Ward at the AT around 10:25 Monday morning.  He is well-fed, well-stocked, clean, has clean clothes, and is in good spirits.  The weather has been very difficult so far, but he thinks he is better prepared now.  The next week also looks very good for the hike to Fontana Dam and then through the Smokies.  He has set his Spot device to send automatic signals, which means there will be more marks on the map.  We'll see how long his batteries last using this method.

Tuesday, February 8, 2011

Go to Helen

Ward and Matt stayed at Low Gap last night, hiked 9.5 miles to GA 75 this morning, and then hitch-hiked into Helen, GA.  I asked about the hitch-hiking, and Ward said a nice older couple in a Lexus gave them a ride.  Interesting.  Anyone who is more than a few years older is classified as "nice, older, or both".

Ward bought an extra coat for night-time sleeping, which helped a lot, but it's still cold.  At least he'll get his old sleeping bag soon, which will help more.  They were able to get a room at the Helendorf Inn for $27 - total - $13.50 each.  Today's plan is to wash clothes, eat well, and push reasonably hard for several days.

I recall visiting Helen on a day trip when Beth and I lived in Atlanta.  We had Reubens and Hacker-Pschorr beer in a small outdoor restaurant on main street (I can't believe I remember the brand.  A Google search helped me with the spelling).  Helen has been described by some as Cherokee, NC with a German facade.  Years ago someone had the vision to market Helen as the place for Oktoberfest in North Georgia, and according to books, the population can swell from 300 to more than 30,000 during the season.  I know of two cold hikers who are likely to make the best of their time in Helen.  I also know of some parents who are happy for a place called Helen.

Sunday, February 6, 2011

The First Zero

Ward called home.  He hiked 16+ miles yesterday to a hostel at Neel's Gap.  The terrain was rugged, and they crossed Blood Mountain, the highest peak in the Georgia section of the AT (approx. 4500 ft.).  Ward was hiking about 20 minutes ahead of Matt and passed an older couple along a side trail.  Matt came along later and told Ward the gentleman suffered a heart attack, evidently after Ward passed him.   As Ward and Matt backtracked to the main trail they met EMTs, and discovered the man passed away.  How sad for the family.

Today is a zero day, meaning he will stay at the hostel and will not hike, as another ice storm rolled in last night or early this morning.  When we spoke after noon, the sun was beginning to shine for the first time on his trip.  He and some others, including two section hikers he met from Georgia, have secured transportation to a nearby town where they plan to have lunch.  Lunch may be tough for Ward, as it is highly unlikely they have Chick-fil-a or Sir Pizza in this town.

It has been cold.  Ward thinks he made a mistake in purchasing an ultra-light sleeping bag even though it is rated to "0" degrees.  He has another, warmer bag at home, which we will either ship or deliver to him the next time we're together.  That may be next weekend.  (Yes, we're nervous parents).  Regardless, he says he is OK for the time being.

Some southbound hikers are telling him the snow is deep in the upper elevations moving north.  They recommend show shoes.  What a surprise!  I've never heard of anyone wearing show shoes in NC.  The thought of Ward wearing show shoes reminds me of Yukon Cornelius, the gold prospector in the Rudolph the Red-Nosed Reindeer cartoon.

Ward plans to increase the pace in the coming days.  He hiked about 8 miles each of the first two days, which put him at his destination around 12 or 1 PM, and left him with nothing else to do.  He was only slightly fatigued on the 16 mile day, and liked the fact that much of his day was not wasted.  Both he and Matt want to push through the trip quickly.  I keep telling him to focus on the journey, and not just the destination, but what do I know.  I'm just sitting in a warm, cozy home thinking about tonight's Super Bowl.

Friday, February 4, 2011

It's Cold

Ward and Matt made Gooch Gap shelter, their second destination point today.  He has traveled 16.5 miles to date, exactly as planned, and he will pick up the pace over the next several days.

The weather conditions are poor - snow and ice, and overcast such that the Spot signal will not reach the satellite.  Ward was able to send a phone text message to Beth, which was thoughtful.  It was cold last night and needs a additional coat for to wear while sleeping - my guess is a fleece vest.  He should be able to purchase one in a couple of days.  Also, it appears he will be able to find lodging tomorrow night, so my hope is that he does not suffer for long.  There are some things parents should not be told.  I'm glad he's starting with Matt.

The Start

Ward departed from the southern terminus of the AT on February 3, 2011 at 10:06 am.  Beth and I traveled to Georgia with him the day before his departure, spending the night at the Amicalola Lodge.  The lodge was almost empty, as it is currently off-season, but it worked out very well for us. 

There are three primary access points to the trail.  We checked in at the registration desk, and found that Ward is the 11th hiker to register at Amicalola this year - some register elsewhere or not at all.  After that we drove 20-25 minutes to a Forest Service access road.  The access road crosses the AT after 6.5 miles, where there is also a parking area.  We then hiked 0.9 miles to the end of the trail, where we took lots of pictures.  The scenery is beautiful, and I'm sure just a precursor to many more wonderful views that Ward will have an opportunity to enjoy along the way. 

As we began our descent, backtracking to our parked car, we ran across another hiker who was beginning his AT trek.  What a relief for us and for the other hiker (Matt)!   I took pictures of Matt using his camera, and then hiked down the trail with him.  He seems like a very nice person and a good companion for Ward.  Matt is from Philadelphia and recently left active duty from the Air Force.  He will be in the reserves until next fall, at which time he will begin a different active duty position.  Another added benefit - Matt attended Le Cordon Blue culinary school when he was younger (he is now age 30), so he may be able to teach Ward a few things about food (or, at least food hygiene) during the trip.  Before we left, Matt asked that I call his mother to let her know of his safe departure.  His mom was as pleased to make contact with us as we were of her, and very much appreciated the call.  We agreed to keep one another posted as necessary.  A good sign!

It was very tough saying good-bye to Ward.  We're very proud of him for setting personal goals and for pursuing dreams at the young age of 20, but we will remain nervous and concerned parents throughout his journey.  The good news is that Ward is a good planner who does not take unnecessary risks.  He also carries a Spot 2 GPS device that beams his coordinates and allows him to send "OK" messages to us (or an "SOS" to a call center).  We were relieved and comforted to receive our first OK message from him at 1:53 pm on the day of his departure, indicating his arrival at his first shelter destination.  We're also glad to hear he has shelter, as rain was expected that night.

End